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Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen

Guldbergsgade 21
Denmark 2200
Tel: 45 35 35 75 55's insider take:

Trailing a serious pedigree, including a stint at the Michelin-starred restaurant The Paul and a four-year stay in Bangkok, chef and owner Henrik Yde determined that his own kitchen would showcase the purity of sour, salty, and sweet flavors that intermingle in Thai coconut soup. Forget, in other words, your standard red curry and rice. Fittingly, Kiin Kiin's double-decker dining room sits in the middle of the multicultural, if increasingly trendy, Nørrebro neighborhood. The ground-floor lounge—the place to pop homemade pork skins and fried lotus roots—is fitted with the Panta Group's bamboo-and–water hyacinth Noodle Chairs. Upstairs in the dining room, gold-leaf Buddhas watch over the service of Yde's six-course tasting menu. Yde strikes every signature note of Thai cooking—from the tart splash of lemongrass and lime juice on scallops and shrimp, to the sour complexity of the soy, ginger, and garlic dressing on his toss of chicken and cashews. Denmark, though, never gets lost in the mix: Seafood dishes rely on the North Sea daily catch, and the lemongrass and baby corn are grown by a Danish farmer just 50 miles outside of Copenhagen.

Closed Sundays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.