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8 Kongens Nytorv
Denmark 1050
Tel: 45 3313 3713's insider take:

An almost daringly decadent statement in pared-down Copenhagen, Geist brings sexy back to central city dining. Geist's dining room has a long bar, a low-lit dining room filled with curving gray banquettes, and a young, clubby crowd. Chef Bo Bech's rich plates are zealously sourced (of course), and combine a Danish rustic approach with a global twist. The result: a dish of two perfectly roasted carrots framed by tender lobster; a turbot crowned with coins of fennel-stuffed ravioli; and a banana sorbet that distills the essence of the fruit. A big bowl of cotton candy comes out for the finale, proof that you can still find sheer whimsy in a town that takes its food very seriously.—Raphael Kadushin

Open daily 6 pm to 1 am.

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