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Manfreds & Vin

40 Jaegersborggade
Denmark 2200
Tel: 45 3696 6593's insider take:

The very model of the second-wave, post-Noma food scene in northern Copenhagen, Manfreds sits on Jaegersborggade, which has become the bobo culinary ground zero. It is owned by ubiquitous Noma veteran Christian Puglisi, who also owns the vaunted Relae just across the street. You enter past a big white tiled open kitchen to a cluttered room filled with scattered tables, a wine cellar lit by a revolving disco ball, and a packed mob of the neighborhood's artiest denizens. The small bargain-priced plates, focusing on the local fashion for veg-centric dishes, include a downright juicy dish of roasted carrots and a salad of barley and pickled onions. Among the concessions to carnivores is a fantastic ox tartare. If the place is too crowded to score a table, make like a townie and get your order to go. This may be the only place in the world where your take-out order, bundled up in a brown paper bag, is likely to include kale with smoked marrow and walnuts.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Tuesdays through Fridays 12 pm to 10 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 10 am to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.