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Agaric, Ashburton, Devon

30 North Street
Ashburton , Devon
Tel: 44 1364 654 478's insider take:

Chef Nick Coiley is living his countryside culinary dream so that you can live yours. When he opened this place in 2000, he immediately set about befriending local suppliers of epicurean delights, planting crazy crops in his gardens (elephant garlic, white alpine strawberries) and curing, pickling, smoking, and baking (twice every day). You cannot find fresher food than this—Coiley even takes his kids out mushroom picking and foraging for prawns. After home-cured bresaola with marinated Jerusalem artichokes, delve into Devon lamb steak with asparagus tart and rosemary gravy, and enjoy cheese from the Ticklemore Cheese Shop in Totnes (1 Ticklemore St.; 44-1803-865-926). Pick up some home-brewed elderflower vinegar or spicy apricot chutney from the little store to take home.

Closed Mondays, Tuesdays, and most Sundays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.