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Lesage, Dresden

1 Lennéstrasse
Germany 01219
Tel: 49 351 42 04 250's insider take:

Located in a glass-walled Volkswagen factory, an architectural marvel in its own right, Lesage is anything but a work canteen. Surrounded by postmodern architecture including big metallic spheres and cones that soar up several stories, and with an assembly line in the middle distance, diners feast on some of Germany's most progressive food. A crayfish "torte" with a tomato-vanilla sauce evolves slowly in the mouth, defying expectations, while red mullet with fried bread is light and delicate. Traditional dishes such as osso buco are remixed with the meat appearing as a sauce on top of pasta in the form of a veal shank, along with asparagus and orange slices. The experiments nearly always work out. The wine list, however, is heavy on German and local Saxon wines, which are decent though overpriced. Don't miss the bathrooms, finished in tiny Bisazza-style copper-colored glass tiles.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays noon to 2:30 pm and 6 pm to 12 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.