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Dunne & Crescenzi, Dublin

14 and 16 South Frederick Street
Ireland 2
Tel: 353 1 677 3815's insider take:

This rustic Italian restaurant lies at the heart of the growing food empire of husband-and-wife team Eileen Dunne and Stefano Crescenzi. Many of the dishes at Dunne & Crescenzi are Stefano's family recipes—a mix of Roman and Piedmontese cuisines, such as bresaola (cured beef, thinly sliced) with Parmesan shavings, wild baby arugula, fresh lemon juice, and Tuscan olive oil served with warm ciabatta bread. The "bruschetteria" and mozzarella bar (the cheese can be ordered with char-grilled vegetables, peppers, or tomatoes and basil) are a nice touch, and the quality of ingredients is made clear up-front: The kitchen uses only D.O.P. products and extra-virgin olive oil, and no trans fats. Laid out across three rooms on South Frederick Street, the trattoria's shelves are stuffed with hundreds of bottles of Italian wine, and though service can be brusque, prices are forgiving. If you judge a restaurant by the number of clients, you're in the right place—there's a line here most nights. Curiously, Booker Prize–winning novelist John Banville will only dine at table 14.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 7:30 am to 11 pm, Sundays 10 am to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.