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L'Gueuleton, Dublin

1 Fade Street
Ireland 2
Tel: 353 1 675 3708's insider take:

This gem off South Great George's Street was tiny when it first opened in 2004, but now L'Gueuleton has expanded to all of 60 seats! They don't take reservations, so show up at 5:30 pm and be patient—they'll call your mobile when they're ready for you. Worn-out tables with bowls of sea salt and fresh pepper set the stage for unstuffy French food: steak béarnaise, escargots served with Roquefort Pithiviers, and chicken liver and foie gras parfait. You can't swing a cat without hitting a Toulouse sausage in Dublin nowadays, but the sausages here (served with a large dollop of choucroute, Lyonnaise potatoes, and rich, juicy gravy) are the best. Bare brick, big windows, and a whisper-quiet jazz soundtrack complete the picture. The original chef, Troy Maguire, has gone on to pastures new, but under Warren Massey, L'Gueuleton remains at the center of Dublin's affordable restaurant revolution.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 12:30 to 3 pm and 6 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.