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Pearl Brasserie, Dublin

20 Upper Merrion Street
Ireland 2
Tel: 353 1 661 3572's insider take:

Home as it was to Peacock Alley, the restaurant in which Conrad Gallagher, the enfant terrible of Irish cooking, made his name, it's fair to say that Pearl Brasserie comes with baggage. Chef Sebastien Masi and his partner, Kirsten Batt, have quietly been building up a head of steam since opening in 2000, however. At the table, the French staff feigns great interest in every iota of your well-being, while in the kitchen, Masi is a sure hand; try the pan-fried tiger prawns served with red pepper risotto and fresh basil. The decor is contemporary, with eclectic flourishes like Belle Époque light fixtures and vaulted little alcoves. The set lunch (€22 for two courses) is one of the best-value meals in town.—Pól Ó Conghaile

Opens Mondays through Fridays 12 to 2:30 pm and 6 to 10:30 pm, Saturdays 6 to 10:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.