This is a local workingman's pub—more than 100 malt whiskies are given pride of place along the tiered wooden bar—but proximity to a large student population and the King's Theatre next door save it from being the sole preserve of growling old Scottish men. Its beautiful Victorian interior has intricately carved wood booths, a cute, private snug at the end of the bar (no longer in use), and a front covered in leaded-glass panels. A second room, in the back, isn't nearly as impressive.

Cafe and art venue by day, club, live music, and theater space by night, the Bongo Club has been pulling in crowds (albeit in a different—less savory—location) since 1996. Depending on the night, the tunes can be jungle, reggae, drum and bass, soul, electro, or hip-hop. A spacious dance floor and regular drink promotions add to the fun, laid-back vibe.

Probably the most active venue in town, Caberet Voltaire is set in vaults deep under the Old Town. Cool lighting and the odd painted red or wood-paneled wall has been added, but the interior retains most of the original stone finish and arched ceilings. There are two dance floors, the smaller one only opening later in the evening when the crowds start to pile in. The club is open every night, with live bands preceding the DJs. You really wouldn't want to lean against the walls in your most expensive shirt, but what it lacks in sophistication it makes up for in wild-eyed enthusiasm. The club nights run from house and garage to electro-indie and techno. Typical bands might be ex-Delgados singer Emma Pollock or up-and-coming neo-punk scamps like Liverpudlians Hot Club De Paris.

Thankfully, Dragonfly doesn't attract the conceited crowd that's usually standard in stylish and award-winning bars like this one. The bar and mezzanine are part Victorian (chandeliers, Oriental wallpaper) and part retro (leather chairs and coffee tables). Collectible Adidas sneakers are displayed like works of art, and the music is courtesy of the owners' well-programmed iPod. The Scotland-inspired cocktail list is exceptional: Try the Monarch of the Glen (12-year-old Glenfiddich, Campari, fresh mint, elderflower, and sugar, over ice). Big-sister establishment Villager is another Victorian-style bar given a modern twist and a good spot to lounge in comfy leather sofas. (49–50 George IV Bridge; 44-131-226-2781; www.villager-e.com).

If you want to dance but aren't up for the all-out club scene, head for this central, super-sophisticated, and dimly lit 8,000-square-foot space, with a mixed (but mostly thirtysomething) crowd. The bar and restaurant both serve excellent cocktails and Asian-style dishes perfect for sharing. And those prepared to part with a yearly fee can get into the VIP members' lounge.

Old stone walls and the location (under Regent Bridge) gives this bohemian Czech watering hole an authentic feel, but don't mistake it for a traditional pub—it's a popular preclub bar, open until 3 a.m. Pilsner Urquell and Staropramen are standard orders at the copper bar, which could double as an art installation with its bizarre fittings and fixtures (including cats and pressure gauges). One room has red upholstered seats, leather sofas, chunky wooden stools, and a TV in the corner playing classic films such as Citizen Kane, but it's standing-room-only in the other, where DJs spin seven days a week.

Long a focal point for traditional music in Edinburgh, this small, cozy pub is best known for the folk sessions that take place in the back room every night, on weekend afternoons, and at other irregular times. The sessions aren't a planned entertainment. There is no cover charge. It's just that Sandy Bell's has been a drop-in gathering place for musicians for decades. Anyone can join in or just listen from the bar with a pint of the local cask-conditioned ale, Deuchars IPA.

Usually operating as a private members club, this rambling city centre town house opens its dining room to nonmembers every Thursday. Highlighting Scottish produce, the kitchen more than holds its own, but the real attraction for nonmembers is the access that these Thursdays give to the whisky menu. The Scotch Malt Whisky Society specializes in cask-strength single malts, and its ever-changing collection of often hard-to-find drams is a whisky-lover's paradise. Those who are really keen to get to grips with Scotland's national spirit should phone in advance and ask about the private, tutored tastings.

Closed Sundays.

Its name is Sygn, but you'll have to take our word for it, since there's no sign outside. (When you come to the only building on this cobbled street with a pink light by the door, you've arrived.) The glamorous, low-lit main bar is done in dark wood and palm-print wallpaper, while a dramatic space out back has purple-velvet booths, gilt mirrors, and chandeliers. The adventurous should sample the extensive array of liqueurs, such as lychee, Kikor, and Tuaca, but even the timid-of-palate should be comfortable with the market pub grub (gourmet burgers and monkfish kebabs).