Opened in March 2007, Abstract's snakeskin tables and gold-leaf ceilings look invitingly decadent, but it's the food that stays in the memory. Grounded in classical French techniques but daringly experimental, the restaurant pairs ingredients such as Jerusalem artichoke and Hoegaarden white beer soup, Aberdeen Angus and tempura anchovies. Unfortunately, head chef Loïc Lefebvre left unexpectedly in May, which led to sous chef Damien Rolain stepping into his kitchen clogs. Happily, reports are still wildly positive.

Dark wood, lacquered maroon walls, and contemporary lighting isn't your typical veggie bistro decor, and a lot of diners here are even (gasp!) meat eaters. They come for the imaginative dishes from David Bann's kitchen, which include smoked tofu Thai spicy fritters with homemade mango chutney and roast garlic tomato sauce, and celeriac spinach and Cheddar tart. Try the malt whisky panna cotta or dark-chocolate soufflé for dessert.

Built in 1686 on the Leith waterfront, this former windmill feels just right for a laid-back restaurant with a menu of fish, fish, and more fish (with the odd meat dish or vegetarian option thrown in). Fishers doesn't shy away from dressing up the catch of the day: Seared king scallops come with curried banana tarte tatin topped with lime, orange, and turmeric cream cheese, while whole roast sardines are served on an herbed crouton with red onion and beetroot chili jam and strawberry and fresh mint yogurt. Book early—both the bar and the small dining room are always packed. If you can't get in, try sister restaurant Fishers in the City (44-131-225-5109; 58 Thistle St.).

Evidently Edinburgh can't get enough high-up restaurants with views. And these views are as gorgeous as any. If the weather is amenable, grab a balcony seat for a rooftop vista that stretches from Edinburgh Castle over the Firth (meaning estuary) of Forth to Fife. Dishes are as fashionable as the labels downstairs. So what's the gastro equivalent of Chloé, Kors, Balenciaga, Thakoon, Derek Lam, etc.? Think honey-roasted quail with black pudding and soused baby vegetables, seared Oban scallops with hummus and red pepper salsa, and roast loin of venison with seared foie gras.

It's changed address a few times since opening in 1947, but this family-run Indian looks particularly comfortable in its latest home, which resembles a Bollywood film set. The butter chicken is dreamy, as is the black lentil dahl. Wash it down with one of the watermelon juices, or bring your own bottle. The restaurant won't be hard to spot: Just look for the brightly painted rickshaw parked outside.

Run ambitiously by young chef Tom Kitchin and his wife, Michaela, this Leith restaurant has shot into Edinburgh's premier league since opening in June 2006. The Scottish chef trained with some of Europe's culinary top guns, who hammered home the importance of seasonality. You won't find any asparagus flown in from Africa on the menu here. Instead, think seared hand-dived Orkney scallops with roasted Scottish asparagus wrapped in pancetta, or roasted wild fillet of North Sea turbot served with artichoke, shellfish à la barigoule, and a saffron sauce.

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Another fabulous view from another top perch on top of a—very boring—modern building in the New Town, this place is on the flashy side with its canapé menus and cocktails that stop just this side of pretentious: The Eucalyptus Martini is Miller's gin shaken with Cointreau, fresh lime, and eucalyptus syrup. Chef Tony Singh's food ranges from snacks (a BET sandwich of smoked bacon and fried egg on a potato scone) to international appetizers (Thai noodles with green beans and mint) to complex entrées (roast cod in Parma ham and apple purée with smoked haddock chowder). People tend to be more intent on watching one another than their plates, though. Chef Singh also has an adventurous Indian restaurant, called Roti, ten minutes away. (73 Morrison St.; 44-131-225-1233; www.roti.uk.com).

Edinburgh's first Michelin star (awarded in 2001, when this place was two years old) appropriately belongs to a native son, young Martin Wishart, whose French wife, Cecile, runs the front of house. Wishart's menus, replete with costly ingredients, are presented on the plate like little works of art. Turbot and langoustine en papillote with Périgord truffle butter; tartare of Aberdeen Angus beef with oysters or sautéed foie gras coated in pain d'épice (gingerbread) are typical appetizers. An entrée might be the côte de veau with vegetable and jus rôti for two, or a grilled Dover sole with brioche and lemon gratin. The three-course dinner menu is set at $100. As is clear by now, Wishart cooks near-classical French (he's worked with two Roux brothers plus Marco Pierre White) while championing local ingredients, but don't worry, this is no hushed gastronomic temple—the vibe is relaxed and friendly.

Closed for dinner Sunday and Monday. Closed for lunch Saturday through Monday.

You wouldn't know it from the unassuming basement entrance, but this cafe and deli serves up an excellent meal—and a reasonably priced one, at that. Fair Trade, locally sourced, and (nearly always) organic ingredients go into the seasonal menu of lighter fare (salads, sandwiches, tapas) and substantial entrées (pan-fried scallops, Stornaway black pudding, Buccleuch beef paprika stew). Original stone walls, a stone-flagged floor, and an old range add some historic character to the otherwise plain, whitewashed space.

Closed Sunday evenings (except during the Festival season).

The Valvona & Crolla delicatessen (19 Elm Row) is a foodies' haven. So too is this Deco-glam restaurant, opened in fall 2004 to celebrate the deli's 70th birthday. The combination of Scottish produce and Italian perfectionism makes for greatness in so many dishes: braised Scottish Borders Stinco di Agnello (lamb shank); Fritto Misto of Scottish seafood and zucchini; a simple Frittata di Verdure (vegetable omelet) with fresh mint, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and pesto. The Tagliere di Salumi—a cured-meat sampler with Speck, bresaola, Coppa di Parma, and Napoli salami—should be a compulsory order. If you're watching the wallet (and who won't be after a few days in Edinburgh), one of the 40 wines by the glass plus a $14 plate of the V&C Polpettine al sugo (pork and beef meatballs with pine nuts, a rich tomato sauce, and as much of the bakery's handmade bread as you can fit in) will do anyone proud.

Closed Sunday evenings.

With its atmospheric oak-paneled main dining room and airy converted courtyard (known as the Secret Garden), dinner at this 16th-century building near the castle gates verges on the theatrical. The menu of classic preparations has a distinctly Scottish flavor: foie gras parfait with truffle jelly and brioche toast; roast filet of Buccleuch beef with a horseradish mousseline; seafood platter (oysters, langoustines, clams, mussels, crab, smoked salmon, and a lobster). If you just can't get enough of the tapestries, gilding, and rich fabrics, stay overnight in one of the seven romantic suites upstairs.