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Concierge.com

st tropez

st tropez

By tmersky
Destinations: 
Europe,
France,
Ramatuelle,
St. Tropez

No Description Available.

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Eating

Spoon at Byblos, France

Hôtel Byblos, Avenue du Maréchal Foch
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 56 68 20
Website: www.byblos.com/byblos_sttropez.php?lg=gb

The Hôtel Byblos has two restaurants, but this is the one everyone in town flocks to (the other is B Bar & Lounge, which serves soups, salads, burgers, and grilled fish poolside and is good for lunch). Conceived by globe-trotting gastronaut Alain Ducasse and designed by the talented Patrick Jouin, this place pulls in a very hip crowd that pecks at the French-glossed Asian-Mediterranean fusion cooking while perched on stools at high counters or lounging at tables in the courtyard. Considering the generally indifferent attitude toward dining around St. Tropez, the sophisticated kitchen manages to provoke appetites with a menu that includes spicy ceviche, shrimp-stuffed pot stickers with ginger-tomato sauce, grilled tuna with stir-fried vegetables, Moroccan tagines, and a chocolate pizza for dessert. It's a very popular choice for a late-night meal before heading to Les Caves du Roy.

Open daily 8 pm to 12:30 am July and August; Thursdays through Mondays mid-April through June and September through mid-October.

Eating

Les Moulins de Ramatuelle, France

Route des Plages
Ramatuelle 83350, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 17 22
Website: www.christophe-leroy.com/lesmoulinsderamatuelle

Ambitious, media-savvy chef Christophe Leroy is St. Tropez's culinary mascot, and he knows his clientele right down to their artfully painted toenails. Leroy's fans want a sexy, romantic setting with great lighting, a low-key lounge sound track, a smattering of famous faces, smiling service from cute waiters and waitresses, and tasty but uncomplicated food—all served under the stars in Ramatuelle. Leroy changes his prix-fixe menu regularly but usually includes vichysoisse with truffles, pasta with clams and mussels in a basil-garlic sauce, lobster salad with ginger, and veal chop with chanterelles. The regulars wash it down with a locally produced Château Minuty rosé and finish things up with the chilled peach salad spiked with lavender flowers.

Eating

Leï Mouscardins, France

Tour du Portalet
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 29 00

Michelin recently and mysteriously snatched away one of Leï Mouscardins's two stars—and the locals aren't pleased. Granted, the too-too fabulous crowd here spends as much time looking around the loud, social dining room as actually tasting the food. But they might have a point: Skilled and imaginative, Breton chef Laurent Tarridec remains the best person cooking in St. Tropez. His brandade (whipped potato and salt cod) cooked in a mason jar remains a local classic; foie gras with figs is grande bouffe excess in the best Gallic tradition. The other dish not to miss—besides the side orders of gossip and backstabbing—is locally caught rouget (red mullet) served on a bed of spelt and dosed with musky Moroccan argan oil. Drink locally—maybe a nice Cassis or a Bellet—to avoid a ruinous tab, then lean back and join in: "Can you believe she wore that dress?"

Open daily 7 to 11 pm.

Eating

Le Girelier, France

Quai Jean Jaurès
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 03 87
Website: www.legirelier.fr

A happy exception to the rule that all of St. Trop's portside restaurants exist to feed tourists badly, Le Girelier is big with the yachting crowd and ideal for a light lunch or an (almost) reasonably priced seafood supper. Begin with the soupe au pistou (vegetable soup with a dollop of basil-and-garlic puree), or the fish soup. Then tuck into a grilled lobster, shrimp sautéed with pastis (anise-flavored liqueur), or tuna tartare. The cheerful dining room is done up in a maritime theme, and service is prompt and friendly.

Open noon to 12:30 am, March through October.

Eating

Le Banh-Hoï, France

12 Rue du Petit Saint-Jean
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 36 29

Tucked away behind Hôtel La Ponche and the Place de l'Ormeau, this small Vietnamese/Thai restaurant is the ideal break from all that Provençal aïoli and bouillabaisse. Settle into the red-and-black decor and sample carefully prepared dishes such as Thai fish soup with lemongrass and coconut milk, shrimp and mango salad, ravioli stuffed with pork and mushrooms, and grilled chicken with satay sauce. Choose a local rosé to accompany your meal, and don't miss the cinnamon-scented apple beignets for dessert.

Closed mid-October through March.

Eating

L'Escale Joseph, France

9 Quai Jean Jaurès
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 00 63
Website: www.joseph-saint-tropez.com/lescale/index.html

The shrewd owners of this very popular seafood joint, opened in 2005, know visitors dream of the innocent days when Brigitte Bardot wandered about town in bare feet. Hence the sand floor and the black-and-white photos of everyone's favorite sex-kitten-turned-animal-activist. Beyond the nostalgia, the food's delicious: The fish soup is so potent that the taste of the Mediterranean will stick with you for the rest of your life; giant grilled shrimp are so fresh they pop when you bite them.

Open daily noon to 1 am.

Eating

Ferme Ladouceur, France

Quartier La Rouillère
Ramatuelle 83350, France
Tel: 33 4 94 79 24 95
Website: www.fermeladouceur.com

This is what makes the village of Ramatuelle magical: dining under the ancient olive and pine trees in the yard of an old farmhouse surrounded by vineyards. The atmosphere captures the relaxed, rural vibe that made the South of France so appealing in the first place. The menu changes daily, but you're likely to find vegetable terrine, roast lamb, and pears poached in red wine with homemade madeleines.

Open daily 7:30 to 10 pm, April through October.

Nightlife

Octave Café, France

Place de la Garonne
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 22 56

It's hard to chat up your new attractive friend at the club with the whomping bass. ("What's your name again? Pardon? Oh, forget it.") The Octave Café is a piano bar tailor-made for tête-à-têtes. Visiting pop stars sometimes drop in for impromptu sets—it's a local tradition. Liza Minnelli, a Rolling Stone or two, and France's favorite rocker, Johnny Hallyday, are among those who've performed.

Open nightly from 11 pm.

Nightlife

Café Le Senequier, France

Quai Jean Jaurès
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 00 90

This café overlooking the port is a major hub for many locals. Customers might come by three times in a day—in the morning for a coffee with the papers, before dinner for an aperitif, and then afterward for a nightcap. The slouchy scarlet-red director's chairs on the terrace offer some of the most electric people-watching in the world.

Shop

Stranos, France

2 Avenue Paul Rousel
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 77 68
Website: www.stranos.fr

Your beach towel is almost as important an accessory as your bathing suit (and that broken-in Rondini sandal!). So leave the ratty terry cloth at home and shop at this upmarket boutique for a St. Trop–worthy spread. The luxurious oversized Egyptian cotton comes in colors to match or flatter nearly every bikini bottom. Stranos also carries a great selection of bathrobes and bed linens.

Open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 3:30 to 11:30 pm.

Shop

Tarte Tropezienne, France

36 Rue Georges Clemenceau
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 71 42
Website: www.tarte-tropezienne.com

St. Tropez has its very own dessert, the namesake pastry of this friendly bakery. The tarte Tropezienne is an airy and addictive brioche filled with pastry cream and sprinkled with large crystals of sugar, and it's absolutely delicious. (Bikini wearers might limit themselves to one.) The bakery also sells fine breads and fruit tarts. There are two other locations, on Boulevard Louis Blanc and Place des Lices.

Open daily 6 am to 11pm.

Shop

Rondini, France

16 Rue Georges Clemenceau
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 19 55
Website: www.rondini.fr

If there's any single accessory that's indelibly associated with St. Trop (besides breast implants), it's the gladiator-style sandals that have been handmade by the Rondini family since 1927. These strappy sandals for men, women, and children come in all kinds of colors and leathers, including snakeskin and crocodile. Even better, they're thick-soled, comfortable, and last forever. But wearing new Rondinis around town is totally uncool. Break 'em in at home.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 12:30 pm and 3 to 7:30 pm.

Shop

Place des Lices Market, France

Place des Lices
St. Tropez 83990, France

Every Tuesday and Saturday, this lively, fragrance-filled open-air market gets crowded with locals and visitors alike. Held under the trees in the Place des Lices, it's perfect for filling one's beach picnic basket with fruit, cheese, bread, sausage—or trinkets such as olivewood trays and serving utensils. Don't come by car: The nearest garages fill up immediately, and there's minimal on-street parking. Walk or bike, and come early for the good stuff.

See + Do

Maison des Papillons, France

9 Rue Etienne Berny
St. Tropez 83990, France
Tel: 33 4 94 97 63 45

With so many rare and beautiful creatures flapping their wings around town, there's some poetic justice in the fact that St. Tropez has one of the best butterfly museums in the world. The collection belonged to the entomologist son of photographer J.H. Lartigue, and occupies his old Provençal-style house. Handsomely displayed under glass, it includes all 250 varieties of butterflies found in France. Harmlessly eccentric and surprisingly interesting.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 2:30 to 6 pm, April through November, or by appointment.

See + Do

Boating, France

St. Tropez, France

It seems a shame to be entirely shore-bound on your trip. For full access to the coastline and to taste the salt spray on your lips, rent a boat from Suncap, which has a variety of sizes and amenity-equipped motorized vessels (15 quai Suffren; 33-4-94-97-11-23; www.suncap.fr). Charters come with a captain and crew, and there are a number of vessels available. Zing over to Île de Porquerolles for lunch at Le Mas du Langoustier. Or take a slow trawl along the coastline and luxuriate in views of the plunging cliffs and small coves that beg for private picnics.

See + Do

Beaches, France

St. Tropez, France

There are a few beaches on the Baie de St. Tropez, east of town, but most are along the beautiful Baie de Pampelonne, three miles southwest of town (technically in Ramatuelle). While a few are public, you can only access the worthiest stretches by paying admission to one of the beach clubs listed here. They're fancy affairs, with facilities including restaurants, lounge chairs, changing rooms, and showers, and occasionally dance floors and open-air hot tubs. Many have live DJs (forget about peace and quiet), and each has its own personality. Fees for private beaches average $20 to $40 for a dressing room and lounge chair. Expect lunch and drinks to be pricey, too.

La Voile Rouge
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel: 33 4 94 79 84 34
If you've never seen a group of five young women wearing nothing but spike heels and metallic bikini bottoms grinding together on tabletops, this infamously hedonistic beach club will change all that. Arrive pretanned and with at least two different "dry" outfits (one for lunch and another for lounging after a swim and a shower). Plenty of nudity and sexy high jinks earn this place an NC-17 rating. Open daily from 9 am.

La Bouillabaisse
St. Tropez
Tel: 33 4 94 97 54 00
Not far from the center of town, this quiet, sandy beach club is ideal for families with children, since it overlooks the calmer, shallower waters of the bay. The stylish restaurant is a fashionable place to dawdle over grilled fish and a chilled bottle of rosé. Open daily 10 am to 7 pm.

Le Club 55
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel: 33 4 94 55 55 55
www.leclub55.com
With a mix of French movie stars, Russian and Middle Eastern businessmen, and aristocratic young couples with children, Club 55 is often referred to as the Beverly Hills of beach clubs. Everyone seems to have a Vertu cell phone, a Louis Vuitton beach bag, and an impossibly expensive watch. (There's so much bling on display in St. Tropez that there's a special SOS number for jewelry lost while swimming.) Even if this sn't your scene, it's worth a once-in-a-lifetime visit for the human comedy alone. Open daily 9 am to 7 pm.

Tahiti
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel: 33 4 94 97 18 02
www.tahiti-beach.com
Long-running, exclusive, and expensive. The most common sound is the pop of Champagne corks. The guests are "mature" French showbiz types, but it's quieter since the opening of Nikki Beach. There's a hotel here as well, if you can't tear yourself away. Open daily 9 am to 7 pm.

Nikki Beach
Plage de Pampelonne
Ramatuelle
Tel: 33 4 94 79 82 04
www.nikkibeach.com/sttropez
Hangout of the same supertanned, blonde-streaked, designer-clad Euro crowd who spend winter roosting at the original Nikki Beach in Miami or the St. Barths branch. Disco music thumps away all day long, and the young rich get their kicks by spraying one another with bottles of icy bubbly. Expect men in leopard-print posing cups (think Speedos, but much, much smaller) and topless women in white cowboy hats. Open daily noon to 8 pm.

Plage des Graniers
St. Tropez
A public beach located just below the citadel that overlooks the harbor, Graniers is the best bet for those without wheels or who don't want to get stuck in the traffic jams that begin and end any day at Pampelonne. It is free, and there is a restaurant on-site.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.