54 Rue Jacob
Tel: 33 1 47 03 07 18
The Saint Germain storefront looks seductively like an open gift box: brown velvet, with a few softly lit pieces glowing in its folds. Adeline Roussel (curiously, the proprietress has added another "l" to her shop name) is not often there, more likely working from her studio in Jaipur, India, where she and master craftsmen set semiprecious stones, cunningly cut to look tumbled, in 22-carat gold. The style is reworked classical antique, her clientele the sort of international traveler familiar with the dharma route. Perhaps best is a benign-looking spider brooch with a back of tourmaline and stone-studded feet. The cost? A scary $2,300.
Open Mondays through Fridays 10:30 to 7 pm.
Abbaye de Flavigny
Tel: 33 3 80 96 20 88
At the Abbaye de Flavigny, candy-maker Catherine Troubat and her staff of specialists carry on the centuries-old tradition of making aniseed bonbons. As the aniseeds, sourced from Spain, Turkey, and Syria, are tumbled in copper basins, they slowly pick up a sugary coating—the process takes 15 days. The smooth spherical candies come in anise, black currant, lemon, orange-flower, ginger, mandarin, mint, licorice, rose, and violet flavors and are sold in attractive little metal boxes that make great souvenirs. Free tours of the sugar-coating workshop take about ten minutes; call for a reservation.—David Downie
Boutique open Mondays, Tuesdays, and Thursdays through Sundays 9:30 to noon and 2 to 6 pm, February 7 through March; Mondays through Fridays 9 am to 12:30 pm and 1:30 to 7 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 10 am to 12:30 pm and 1:30 to 7 pm, April through November 11.
Factory visits and abbey tours Mondays through Fridays 9 to 11 am, except holidays, the first three weeks in August, and Christmas through New Year's Day.
Paris is crammed with antique shops, otherwise called brocantes or antiquaires, often full of marvelous assortments of objects. One concentration of shops is in the Carré Rive Gauche, literally a square within Saint-Germain of associated dealers, marked by blue banners; its four sides are formed by the Rue des Saints-Pères, the Rue Jacob (which becomes the Rue de l'Université), the Quai Voltaire, and the Rue de Beaune. The best place to start is a chat with Madame Fortier, who has been running Edouard de la Marque at 2 Rue des Saints-Pères since 1945, and is what the French like to call an oiseau du quartier—someone who knows everyone and everything. Edouard de la Marque specializes in accessible early-to-mid-century furniture (33-1-42-60-71-62). The Rue de Lille has several specialists in Art Deco and mid-century; the Quai Voltaire takes a wide swath, from medieval religious statues to dainty Venetian glass. Down the Rue de Beaune, several curiosités offer tempting displays of oddities (stuffed birds, globes, and miniature beds); a specialist in medical paraphernalia, including skeleton models, prints, and early texts, can be found on the Rue Jacob. Best to look out for the yearly vernissage, or opening, in June, where all participating shops stay open till midnight, put up their best pieces, and serve Champagne.
29 Rue du Commandant André
Tel: 33 4 93 38 48 48
Pablo Picasso wore sandals from this century-old Parisian leather house, which opened its Cannes location in 2007. The sandals are still done in the trademark Venezia leatheroil-tanned and infused with spectacular color and patina that looks like it came straight from an old oil painting. The shop also carries briefcases as well as loafers and oxfords, for when you have to go back to the boardroom. The staff is thoroughly knowledgeable and eager to please, but be sure to walk in with a thick wallet: Sandals start at about $850 and shoes at about $1,275.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.
Tel: 33 3 85 49 23 88
Based in the village of Bissy-sur-Fley, in the scenic Côte Chalonnaise wine country of southern Burgundy, Catherine Vanier is a distinguished ceramist who often works with slipware to create a highly textured surface and a complex matte finish. Other pieces are glossy and bright, and bring to mind Asian fabrics. Although she makes plates, boxes, bowls, and objects that look a lot like salt shakers and ashtrays, Vanier's artwork is intended to be decorative. Her larger sculptures are typically undulating forms in the rich colors of pastureland or forest, evoking the rolling, patchwork Burgundian countryside.—David Downie
Open by appointment only.
7 Rue Raoul Bosio
Tel: 33 4 93 85 65 79
This wine store, which dates to 1860, specializes in local and Provençal specialties, including many hard-to-find properties and varietals. There is an extensive selection of rosés as well as the usual grands crus from Bordeaux and Burgundyall at some of the best prices around. The location in Vieux Nice is just a few blocks from the Place Masséna in one direction and the Mediterranean in the other.
Open Sundays through Thursdays from 9:30 am to 7:30 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 9:30 am to 11:30 pm.
31 Rue Cambon
Tel: 33 1 42 86 26 00
Housed in the former town house where Coco kept an apartment, just off the Place Vendôme, the original Chanel boutique is still the best; for Chanel-holics, it's a visit to the source itself. Coco kept a "daytime" apartment in the building while living at the Ritz, just across the street. More intimate—and less "branded"—than other Chanel shops, the space is an invitation to imagine what it was like to be the chicest woman alive…and to buy a handsomely priced souvenir.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.
28 Place Vendôme
Tel: 33 1 42 60 30 70
Metro: Madeleine or Opéra
Charvet is a haven for the well-dressed man, not just for stuffed shirts—though it's filled with them. For more than 150 years, it has been France's best-known and finest custom shirtmaker, but even if this sort of luxury item is not on your shopping list, visit this five-floor complex just off the Place Vendôme to gawk at the spectacle of hundreds of bolts of brightly colored Egyptian cotton. Everything is either custom-made or customizable, including ties, soft pajama sets, handkerchiefs, and suits. Full custom shirts start at $565. The service is attentive and somber.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.
Spend a day in the Luxembourg Gardens and you'll see that French children have as much style as their parents. For a good introduction to vêtements pour enfants, explore the streets around the park, such as the Rue Vavin, the Rue de Seine, and the Rue de Tournon in the sixth, or head to the Rue Condorcet in the ninth. Alice à Paris is like a child's answer to A.P.C.: You'll find simply cut basics for ages one month to 8 years that are smart without being too precious or too pricey. The duffel coats with horn closers (just like Paddington Bear's), drawstring harem-style pants (perhaps in paisley or denim), and Nehru-collar shirts are perennials for the smart younger set. When Michelle Obama came to Paris in June 2009, she shopped for her girls at the Bonpoint flagship at 6 Rue de Tournon in the sixth; downstairs, the restaurant, which looks onto a courtyard, serves salads and Italian dishes at reasonable prices. Equally pricey but less prim, BonTon plays Soho to Bonpoint's Park Avenue with more everyday fashions and an eclectic assortment of toys. (Both Bonpoint and BonTon are best for ages one month through 8 years.) The bright aesthetic of Ube Ule, on the Rue Condorcet in the ninth, focuses on imports from Belgium and Holland (best for ages 4 to 10). The shop is deliberately distractinglike a child's playroomand is filled with lunchboxes, corduroy pantsuits, the owners' handmade line of printed cotton shirts and dresses, dangling mobiles, stacks of Petitcollin dolls (in production since 1860), and a toy crib (for sale) filled with hand-knit animals. Nearby, Marchand d'Étoiles translates to "merchant of the stars"referring to dreamtime rather than Angelina Jolie. The jaunty cut of the pajamas (in cotton, linen, jersey, and fleece, for ages one month to 12 years) helps them easily transition from night to day. Among the pj's, you'll also find cosmetics, such as alcohol-free violet perfume, and a private line of pantouflesdashingly pointy leather house slippers. For babies in particular, Tartine & Chocolat is as sweet as its name, while Jacadi excels in adorable things for model girls and boys up to 12 years.
As a rule of thumb, most stores are open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
Insiders with a sweet tooth know to seek out Bernard Dufoux, considered one of France's top ten chocolatiers, in far-flung La Clayette in southwest Burgundy. Dufoux, now over 70 years old, still toasts his own cocoa beans and makes everything from scratch. Don't miss his "apéritif" chocolates: Barely sweet, they're designed to complement Burgundy wines. Dufoux also teaches the secrets of his craft in full-immersion courses (held the first Wednesday of each month, by reservation only). If you can't make it to La Clayette, there are plenty of other places to indulge throughout Burgundy:
Dijon: Fabrice Gillotte's Au Parrain Généreux is a pilgrimage site for French chocolate lovers. Among the best of these astonishingly complex sweets are the Terroirs de Bourgogne series: dark chocolate filled with fresh raspberry, black currant, blackberry, or heirloom vineyard peach ganache.
Beaune: At Dix Carnot, a chocolate and pastry shop on Beaune's main square, Fabien Rouaud creates edible artworks: filled chocolates, macarons, and a crème brûlée–chocolate biscuit called Adélaïde. Practically next door, at Palais des Gourmets, pastry chef Jacky Tavenet creates liqueur-filled Roulés au Cointreau, chocolate snails, meringue-and-black-currant Nuages de Bourgogne, butter cookies, ice creams, and crêpes.
Tournus: Tournusien—a luscious pastry with almonds, vanilla-flavored butter, and hazelnut nougatine—is a specialty of the Gilles Lathuilière boutique near St. Philibert Abbey. Lathuilière's must-try chocolates include Greuze Émotion (candied hazelnut praline coated with chocolate) and Les Délices de Tournus (Cointreau-flavored chocolate nuggets).
Cluny: It's easy to mistake the exquisite chocolates and pastries at Germain–Au Pêché Mignon for gems; specialties include Truffes du Moine (chocolate-hazelnut truffles) and Les Blancs Cassis (white chocolate with creamy black currant). Germain's café and tea room is next door.—David Downie
Bernard Dufoux open daily 9 am to 8 pm.
Fabrice Gillotte–Au Parrain Généreux open Tuesdays through Saturdays 9:15 am to noon and 2 to 7 pm, Mondays 2 to 7 pm, mid-August through July.
Dix Carnot open daily 8 am to 7 pm.
Palais des Gourmets open daily 7 am to 7:30 pm, May through September; Wednesdays through Mondays 7 am to 7:30 pm, October through April.
Gilles Lathuilière open Tuesdays through Saturdays 9 am to 12:30 pm and 2:30 to 7 pm, Sundays 9 am to 1 pm. Closed for two weeks in February and from end August to early September.
Germain–Au Pêché Mignon open daily 7 am to 8 pm.
19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Tel: 33 1 42 36 05 31
His red solessadly now copied by everyone elsemake people want to kick up their heels; his Paris boutiques, with their lipstick-red velvet shoe nooks, make you want to kiss the windows, or his feet. France's answer to Blahnik (with a sense of humor), Louboutin continues to invent new forms for his demurely racy designs, including a leg-length twist of satin or (of course) the trash-can heel. It's worth a visit to pay homage to the master at his original boutique in the first; this is where Mme. Hubert, who handles custom orders, is based. The cordonnerie Minuit Moins 7 in the adjacent Passage Véro-Dodat is the only shoe repair shop in the world that can replace your worn-out red soles with the real deal (33-1-42-21-15-47; 24-hour service possible). Louboutin's newest address is a stone's throw from the Élysée Palace at 68 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré in the eighth (33-1-42-68-37-65); there's a third shop at 38 Rue de Grenelle in the seventh (33-1-42-22-33-07).
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7pm.
78 Rue de Seine
Tel: 33 1 43 26 46 50
Metro: Odéon or Mabillon
Founded in 1643, Cire Trudon is the oldest operating candlemaker in France. The official supplier to Versailles under Louis XIV survived the Revolution and retained its cachet during the Empire: Napoleon's sole gift to his infant son was a Cierge Impériale candle encrusted with three gold coins bearing the emperor's likeness. Cire Trudon still makes candles of all sizes and colors, from simple to scented to sculpted busts of Marie Antoinette. A longtime supplier to palace hotels and luxury houses such as Guerlain and Dior, Cire Trudon began producing its own scented candles in 2006. Notes of rum, leather, and tobacco made the Ernesto an instant hit, while the Spiritus Sancti recalls a stroll through Notre-Dame. Herbal and soliflore candles (introduced in 2009) counterbalance such heady offerings with notes of basil, sage, or sandalwood. For those with a special occasion to commemorate, custom candles can be delivered within 48 hours. Upstairs, a minuscule antiquaire presents a hodgepodge of candle-related objects that range from affordable and portable to anything but.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.
213 Rue Saint-Honoré
Tel: 33 1 55 35 33 90
Metro: Tuileries or Pyramides
L'art de vivre was practically invented in France, so it's not surprising the country has some of the best, and best-known, lifestyle stores. Colette is an ad hoc destination for gimmicky cool, for everything from the newest portable electronics (ever sleeker and smaller) to obscure trance music and impossible heels; the selection of known and emerging fashion matches the store's hipper-than-thou staff.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
42-58 Avenue Georges Clemenceau
Tel: 33 4 94 54 63 82
Just outside of town, Cogolin has been famous for pipemaking for several centuries. The craft has a long tradition here due to the high-quality briar root—the heart of any fine pipe—that grows in the nearby Maure forest. The top-of-the-line at Courrieu is the simple Provence collection, handcarved from briar roots that are as old as 100 years. They make a fine gift, even for someone who doesn't smoke.
Open daily 9 am to noon and 2 to 6 pm.
Tel: 33 3 85 40 16 08
In the 1990s, this medieval village 10 miles east of Tournus in southern Burgundy was semi-abandoned and filled with empty storefronts. To revitalize their town, Cuisery locals (with the help of the regional government) transformed the town into Burgundy's book capital. Dozens of bookstores and stalls line the pedestrian-only main street: Some volumes are extremely valuable; most are not—but look carefully, and you might find an unnoticed first edition. (Note that most of the books are in French, but there are some in English and other languages.) Visit on the first Sunday of the month, when the streets fill with even more stands than usual.—David Downie
362 Rue Saint-Honoré
Tel: 33 1 42 60 95 23
Metro: Tuileries or Madeleine
The unassuming Dary's bijouterie attracts not only scores of fashionable clients (who snap up everything from bone pendants to jet collars) but magpie starlets like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. The double entrances are linked inside, with gold on the left and everything else on the right. You'll find Victorian steel-cut chandelier earrings, sweet solitaires, and dainty ivory bracelets. But perhaps the best thing is the charming smile of the proprietor, who, along with her mother, is also a gemologist.
Open Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 6 pm, Saturdays noon to 6pm.
Jardin du Palais Royal
20-24 Galerie de Montpensier
Tel: 33 1 42 96 06 56
Metro: Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre
Back in 1975, Didier Ludot virtually invented the market for vintage in Paris with his eponymous shop in the Palais Royal. Despite his reputation as the international emperor of 20th-century fashion, he can often be seen in the boutique, which sells immaculate haute couture pieceslook for the sternly handsome man with glasses. Across the park in the opposite gallery is another shop devoted to his favorite subject, "La Petite Robe Noire" (also the title of his book, published in 2001). Here, select vintage originals are merely the inspiration for his yearly collection of "petite couture"hand-finished little black dresses that would do Audrey Hepburn proud. In 2009, he unveiled DL Palais Royal, a collection of lighter-priced LBDs that are younger in spirit; he also carries what he considers "significant" pieces that may even be from last year.
Didier Ludot open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7 pm.
La Petite Robe Noire open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
10 Rue Ferdinand Duval
Tel: 33 1 42 78 19 34
The name is English and the new boutique looks distinctly Zen, yet the Different Company is the summit of France's perfume-making tradition. In 2000, France's most famous nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, and an ambitious industrial designer, Thierry de Baschmakoff, decided to create a line using only the best ingredients and the most beautiful (and sturdy) hardware. Since Ellena now works exclusively with Hermès, he has handed over the creative direction to his daughter, whose innovations include Night Jasmine, a highly concentrated perfume with over 700,000 flowers per bottle. Though the perfumes are now internationally available (and covetable), it's only here that the company tests scents in wine glasses, furnishes refills, or finds custom crocodile casing for perfume bottles.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 7 pm.
18-20 Rue Coquillière
Tel: 33 1 42 36 53 13
Metro: Chátelet-Les Halles
Since 1820, this higgledy-piggledy store under the shadow of the Bourse's dome has been a cook's heaven for pro chefs or Sunday dabblers, with racks of copper pots gleaming like halos over the bodies of stainless-steel bain-maries. Whether you're looking for a well-balanced bread knife, an omelet pan, or a fish mold, you'll find virtually every accoutrement, and often at exceptional value (the omelet pan, for instance, is $112). Be warned, the knowledgeable staff's enthusiasm is contagious.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm.
The days of true flea-market finds may be long gone, yet aficionados will not be disappointed by the depth and range of Paris's markets, and certainly will be pleased by their still-raucous atmosphere. (For further info, check out www.lechineur.fr, which has a complete listing for all flea markets, temporary or regular, in French.)
The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen claims to be the largest flea market in the world—and if it isn't true, it certainly feels that way. There are technically 15 markets in the mass of buildings and stalls, though many now sell jeans and sneakers. Six markets deal strictly in "antiques" and follow a kind of lazy logic: Vernaison is the first off the main drag, with smaller stands and a kind of grab bag of items, from walking sticks to silver to lamps. Rosiers and Biron are the most officious: The stands are sturdier and glassed-in, and the objects might include gold-leafed, double-facing love seats known as tête-à-têtes. Marchés Serpette and Dauphine hold everything from pool tables to costume jewelry. It's probably Marché Paul Bert that has the most pleasingly diverse range, often decoratively worn items, including rare industrial lamps and muslin-covered Napoléon III love seats (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt, Porte de-St-Ouen; Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, 9:30 am6 pm). The Marché aux Puces de Vanves is a true brocanteurs market deep in a residential neighborhood in the 15th, a long meandering line of temporary stalls featuring everything from Porcelaine de Paris and tea towels commemorating D-Day to entire vintage kitchens. There are a few excellent art-book dealers and a satisfying variety of silver dealers (for beautiful bone-and-silver salad servers), as well as stalls featuring a broad selection of lithographs, sketches, and even daguerrotypes (Metro: Porte de Vanves; www.pucesdevanves.typepad.com; Saturdays and Sundays 7 am1 pm). At the Marché aux Puces de Montreuil look past the shampoo, polyester nightgowns, and used tires, because this is also one of the better places to look for vintage non-designer clothing, with everything from the late 19th century through the '80s (dealers are mostly grouped in the right-hand corner as you enter from the périphérique), or just to absorb the atmosphere of polyglot suburban Paris, where herb hawkers mix with rug dealers and battery vendors. For occasional finds in china or mid-century French café ware, elbow your way to the back by the bridge (Metro: Porte de Montreuil; Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 7 am7:30 pm).
9 Rue Scribe
Tel: 33 1 47 42 04 56
A grande dame on the French perfumery scene (founded in 1926) and one of the rare operations to remain family-owned, Fragonard has morphed into a modern fragrance contender thanks to the efforts of third-generation directors Agnès and Françoise Costa. In addition to producing several lines of perfumes, home fragrances, scented soaps, and skincare products, the company has made a specialty of very affordable and distinctively French gift items, from tableware to makeup pouches as well as bohemian Parisienne basics such as semiprecious jewelry, jackets, and scarves sourced in India. The Rue Scribe boutique is located within a Napoleon III—era hôtel particulier that is home to a perfumery museum (entry is free, and products are sold at cost); other outposts can be found along main arteries in St.-Germain-des-Prés and the Marais, as well as on Rue St.-Honoré.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm, Sundays 9 am to 5 pm.
For a country obsessed with nonglobalizationthe market street, the local winethere is one kind of multiple the French love: boutique franchises. Smart answers to American chains like Banana Republic and J.Crew, this series of stores can be found in most central neighborhoods, and are staples of most French women's closets.
Et Vous does a sleek line of suits and satin dresses that echo (a more economical) Joseph.
Zadig & Voltaire is loved for its fine-gauge knits in summer and chunky cardigans in winter, as well as a good selection of ballerines.
Sandro is more affordable than Zadig & Voltaire but has just as much attitude, making it a go-to address for on-trend seasonal items.
Maje talks to Sandro's pretty younger sister, who favors a funkier, street-inspired look.
Comptoir des Cotonniers, like the name says, specializes in cotton and outerwear, such as sharp trench coats and the perfect-weight T-shirt.
Les Petites is a favorite among bobo (bohemian-bourgeois) clients for its feminine, urban fashions inspired by icons like Brigitte Bardot (circa 1960).
Cotelac offers a sophisticated mix of silky cocktail dresses and skirts, along with well-cut work trousers and, in winter, well-priced boots.
42 Rue du Bac
Tel: 33 1 45 48 45 15
Metro: Rue du Bac
Art lovers will recognize the name of France's foremost private contemporary art museum, the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul de Vence. Today, this shop and adjacent gallery are run by Isabelle and Yoyo Maeght, the granddaughters of the art dealer, collector, and editor Aimé Maeght. In addition to presenting temporary exhibitions by today's leading artists, the shop sells mementos of late greats such as Calder, Matisse, and Braque ranging from greeting cards to vintage posters, books (Maeght is a renowned publisher), and lithographs. Many items are both distinctive and affordable, such as reissues of exhibition posters (about $35) and collectible children's books by Warja Lavater (about $65), while original limited-edition lithographs by Chagall, Miró, or Giacometti can run upward of $40,000.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 9:30 am to 7 pm.
43 Rue Charlot
Tel: 33 1 42 77 42 48
Metro: Filles de Calvaire
The bad boy of French fashion, Gaspard Yurkievich has been roughing up pretty girls (and boys) since 1995. In his grittily glamorous boutique, all steel and wood, in the fashionable Third, his clothes are a torqued marriage of Vivienne Westwood and Anna Karina—like tough-angled jackets in damask, and fine-knit stockings with decorative spiders peeking out of their webs. Clients include dealers from the concentration of avant-garde art galleries nearby, who understand that even grown-ups want to be punky sometimes.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
Gingerbread (pain d'épice) is a specialty of Dijon, and connoisseurs agree that family-run Mulot & Petitjean, founded in 1796, bakes some of the tastiest examples of the spicy, honey-sweet treat. The original boutique in downtown Dijon—still with its 19th-century decor—sells everything from individually wrapped gingerbread bites to giant loaves. Near Dijon's Notre-Dame church, rival bakery La Rose de Vergy serves excellent coffee and tea along with gingerbread sweetened only with artisanal honey. But the most flavorful, wholesome, fluffy gingerbread of all—with a whopping 70 percent honey—isn't from Dijon. It's baked by organic honey-makers Dominique and Jean-Jacques Coppin and sold at their shop, Les Ruchers du Morvan, located on an isolated hillside in the Morvan regional park, near Château-Chinon. The Coppins' honeys, particularly the Fleurs Sauvages (guaranteed wildflower honey), are some of France's best.—David Downie
Mulot & Petitjean open daily 9:30 am to 7 pm, summer; Mondays through Fridays 9:30 am to 7 pm, the rest of the year. Additional shops are located at 1 Place Notre-Dame, 16 Rue de la Liberté, and 1 Place Carnot, Beaune.
La Rose de Vergy open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 9:30 am to 7 pm.
Les Ruchers du Morvan open daily 9 am to 7 pm (or by appointment) spring through fall; Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 7 pm, winter.
Tel: 33 3 85 59 64 25
Since 1999, English glass artists Annette Meech and Christopher Williams have been working out of a farmstead in Sivignon, an isolated hillside village about ten miles east of Cluny in southern Burgundy. You may recognize their work—it's in galleries worldwide and the permanent collections of museums such as London's Victoria and Albert and Paris's Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Practical limited-edition objects for the home include Pebble vases (about four inches tall, they're perfect for displaying a single flower) and Baas carafes, which are designed to fit into a refrigerator door.—David Downie
Workshop open Mondays through Fridays 9:30 am to 2 pm; gallery open Mondays through Fridays 9:30 am to 5 pm and by appointment. Best to call ahead.
24 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré
Tel: 33 1 40 17 47 17
The original Hermès store on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré was one of the first to open on the new 19th-century street and recalls the tradition of "grands magasins" writ in miniaturefour elegant and wood-carved floors of pure equestrian-themed pleasure. Aside from the usual range of signature watches, scarves, trunks, and bagsand the Gaultier-designed womenswear collectionthey also have housewares, menswear, porcelain collectibles, riding boots, and, for the truly horsey, a custom saddlery. In November 2010, the house will be making a long-overdue jump to the Left Bank. Until that much-anticipated shop debuts at 17 Rue de Sèvres, in the seventh arrondissement, a temporary boutique welcomes customers nearby at 16 Rue de Grenelle (33-1-53-63-02-19).
Open daily 10:30 am to 6:30 pm.
6 Rue de Charonne
Tel: 33 1 49 29 71 55
If you've ever wondered how French women seem to walk an elegant line between casual and formal, chic without being identifiably fashionable, you'll find it may be because they are wearing an Isabel Marant outfit. Her easy, portable clothes are available in three shops as varied as her clientele: this one in the punky Bastille, another in polished St. Germain (1 Rue Jacob, 75006; 33-1-43-26-04-12), and a third in the cool upper Marais (47 Rue Saintonge, 75003; 33-1-42-78-19-24). Her main line often uses nubby Italian weaves in rich shades of pewter and glossy black, cut with cowl necks and nipped waists, including a collection of always covetable coats; her "étoile" line is younger, often using gauzy Indian prints.
Open daily 10:30 am to 7:30 pm.
4 Rue Papillon
Tel: 33 1 45 23 23 24
Armenian-born French shoe designer Karine Arabian has created the perfect pump: round-toed, stable-heeled, but still sexy, and at a price that's north of cheap and south of Blahnik. Whether in supple patent leather or brushed metallic, with etched flower patterns or contrast piping, the consistently elegant profile is beloved of confident women who know what works. Most major French department stores carry Arabian's shoes, but the full line (as well as a small run of accessories, including quilted satchels) is best viewed at the sweet boutique she opened in 2001 on the Rue de Papillon.
Open Mondays 2 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
34 Rue General Allard
Tel: 33 4 94 97 42 26
If the bikini that looked swell in the shop back home suddenly looks tragically frumpy on the beach here, seek help at Kiwi. The Ramatuelle-based bathing suit manufacturer sells its own line of brightly colored, well-cut suits for women, men, and kids. Women's suits come in all degrees of cover-up, from one-piece conservative to bikini scandalous.
Open daily 10 am to 10 pm, Easter weekend through October.
5 Rue de l'Hôtel-Dieu
Tel: 33 3 80 25 08 30
This vast, multilevel bookstore near the Hospices de Beaune stocks thousands of volumes on wine, Burgundian food, history, entertaining, and more. You'll also find wine accessories and hundreds of bottlings of Burgundy's top wines to taste or buy.—David Downie
Open daily 10 am to 7 pm. Closed Christmas and January 1.
3 Rue des Rosiers
Tel: 33 1 48 87 10 22
Metro: St. Paul
L'Eclaireur is the giddy Colette's brainy older cousin. The stores were some of the first to showcase Belgian designers like Ann Demeulemeester next to design pieces by Ron Arad. L'Eclaireur opened its first location in the early '80s on the Champs-Élysées. Now it has six stores in Paris: Most have designs that incorporate raw wood and unfinished steel, and they carry a highly select collection of primarily European mens- and womenswear, as well as jewelry, shoes, accessoriesand even a full Italian kitchen unit. The outpost on Rue Boissy d'Anglas includes a L'Etrange Restaurant annex, an homage to Fornasetti that's popular at lunchtime with the fashion crowd. And don't call its Arne Quinze–designed address on Rue de Sévigné in the Marais a "boutique"; it's an "interactive installation," fitted with 147 digital screens designed to showcase cutting-edge fashion. Other shops are at 12 Rue Mahler, 75004 (33-1-44-54-22-11); 26 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 (33-1-45-62-12-32); and 10 Rue Herold 75001 (33-1-40-41-09-89).
L'Eclaireur Rue des Rosiers open daily 11 am to 7 pm.
L'Etrange Restaurant at L'Eclaireur open Mondays 12 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 12 to 7 pm and 8 pm to 1 am.
L'Eclaireur Sévigné open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
75 Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Tel: 33 1 40 75 08 75
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Georges V
They did not invent the macaron, but they may have perfected itwhich is why Sofia Coppola had all the sweet treats for her film Marie Antoinette special-ordered from Ladurée. It's not hard to see why: In a city full of imitators, Ladurée's caramel has just the right amount of salt, and the rose manages to be flowery and not sickly sweet. It may just be worth buying a dozen for the box, which comes in delicate eggy pastels with a black-stencilled monogram. The fashionable Art Nouveau–inspired Ladurée Le Bar, which is adjacent to the Champs-Élysées address, caters to a late-night crowd with cocktail versions of its celebrated pâtisseries. Other shops in Paris include Ladurée Royale (16 Rue Royale, 75008; 33-1-42-60-21-79) and Ladurée Bonaparte (21 Rue Bonaparte, 75006; 33-1-44-07-64-87).
Ladurée Champs-Élysées open daily 7:30 am to 11 pm.
Ladurée Le Bar open Mondays through Thursdays 9 am to 11:30 pm, Fridays 9 am to 12:30 am, Saturdays 10 am to 12:30 am, and Sundays 10 am to 11:30 pm.
3 Boulevard Madeleine
Tel: 33 1 42 97 20 27
Teetotalling President Sarkozy notwithstanding, wine is practically France's national drinkand it's easy to find. There are reliable chains such as Nicolas or Le Repaire de Bacchuslocal wine shops that are interesting, if uneven; and even the butcher usually has a few bottles stacked next to the pots of terrine. What Lavinia brought to the scene when it opened in 2002 was quality wines on a superstore scale. Like an oenological Whole Foods, the 15,000 square feet of clean, navigable, modern space just off the Place de la Madeleine holds an expansive collection of French vintages, naturally, along with a selection of biodynamic wines and little-known finds from sources as diverse as Hungary and Uruguay. Lavinia also caters to out-of-town clientele with English-speaking sommeliers, a tasting room and café (for tired feet and empty stomachs), and assistance shipping your purchases home, now that carry-on liquids are a thing of the past.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.
24 Rue de Sèvres
Tel: 33 1 44 39 80 00
Le Bon Marché is a reference for everything a department store (Paris's first) ought to be—from its Gustave Eiffel–designed glass and steel structure to its spacious floors and well-edited selections. You can linger in the ground-floor hat department and consider the millinery confections for the races or a grand wedding, or go up to the second-floor lingerie department for the most delectable display of the best, and frothiest, under-things. And if the shopathon takes its toll, pick up a portable snack at La Grande Épicerie, a tony temple to international food.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 to 8 pm.
46 Rue du Bac
Tel: 33 1 44 55 07 15
Metro: Rue du Bac
Prince Louis Albert de Broglie knows a thing or two about cultivating one's garden—it was tending the one at his château near Tours that inspired him to create a shop that caters to the gardening art de vivre. In addition to offering handsome tools and other accoutrements, this store specializes in the kind of gear—country-chic jackets, aprons, and natural fiber bags—that has a life well beyond the garden. The enthusiastic response allowed the prince to twice rescue Deyrolle: Founded in 1831, this unrivaled cabinet of curiosities—and the last true taxidermist on the continent—was saved from bankruptcy by de Broglie in 2001, only to be gutted by fire in 2008. When Deyrolle's space (located above Le Prince Jardinier) rose from the ashes in late 2009, "naturalized" circus animals had returned to the floor, as had other curios of the natural world, from boxes of mounted butterflies and iridescent insects (Yves Saint Laurent was a collector) to assorted crystals, shells, and the odd bat skeleton.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm, closed at lunch hour on Mondays.
101 Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Tel: 33 1 53 57 52 00
Metro: Georges V
Louis Vuitton's luxurious Champs-Élysées flagship is not just a place to purchase the brand's covetable clothes, bags, and jewelry—it's an ode to fashion and art. Permanent installations inside the store include a James Turrell video that floats at the entrance, and the Espace Culturel, a gallery that houses imaginative contemporary art and travel-related exhibitions, has become a regular stop on the tourist circuit. Olafur Eliasson's sensory-deprivation elevator (a black box that cuts out all external stimuli) whisks visitors to the sixth floor to tour the thrice-yearly shows and enjoy views of the city. Access to the Espace Culturel is easiest from the Rue Bassano; entry is free but numbers are limited, so beware of queues.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.
7 Rue St. François de Paule
Tel: 33 4 93 85 77 98
Handmade chocolates are for sale in the back, but the windows of this old-fashioned candy store feature even more alluring candied and preserved fruits in intense, sticky-looking reds, yellows, and greens. The shop itself is a blur of Provençal tiles and rococo carved wood and is packed with locals and visitors of all ages buying expensive treats that are all made in-house.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 9 am to 1:30 pm and 2:30 to 6 pm.
35 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg
Tel: 33 1 43 47 18 54
Metro: Hôtel de Ville
Founded in 1854, Mariage Frères is the sine qua non of the tea world. This place is known for the fine quality of its teas, as well as the unusual blends (with new flavors constantly being introduced) and the distinctive black metal pots. Uniformed "tea waiters" serve out loose-leaf with the concentration of jewelers measuring diamonds. Be sure to look at their line of tea-associated objects, including sturdy strainers and canisters, Japanese porcelain cups, and iron teapots. Other shops are at 13 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 (33-1-40-52-81-50), and 260 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (33-1-46-22-18-54).
Open daily noon to 7 pm.
7 Rue Rouget de l'Isle
Tel: 33 1 47 03 96 15
If Paris has a priestess of high fashion, it is surely Maria Luisa Poumaillou. A champion of young designers since she opened her original store on the Rue Cambon in the late '80s, she was among the first to recognize budding designers John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, and introduced Parisians to Manolos. A constellation of boutiques followed, which now have been consolidated into two: one for cutting-edge womenswear and another across the street for menswear (38 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001). Of late, her unerring eye and inherent elegance have won her a new title—that of "fashion editor" to the department store Le Printemps, where she opened an eponymous space in late 2009.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7 pm.
26 Rue Vavin
Tel: 33 1 43 26 46 44
Paris loves paper; it's a city where visiting cards are still in use, and graveurs can be found in every neighborhood. Since 1977, Marie-Paule Orluc has been the singular resource for handmade papers in unorthodox and bright colors, including a high-gloss lacquer finish. All are available for engraving using traditional techniques. Her line of supple journals, travel notebooks, and even storage boxes are a writer's dream. Her boutique in the 14th is unfussily stuffed with every sort of possibility for a missive, and her friendly staff will even inspire a convivial note.
Open Mondays 2 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to 7pm.
135 Rue d'Antibes
Tel: 33 4 93 38 54 40
Local interior-design legend Madame Foubet is often on site to advise clients at this duplex space filled with pieces from contemporary heavyweights like Kartell, Cappellini, and Flos. Ask her which would look best in your (imaginary) château: the modern metal wicker chairs from Ito or the vintage red-leather Knoll chaise longue?
Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 12:30 pm and 3 to 7 pm.
111 Boulevard Beaumarchais
Tel: 33 1 42 77 00 33
Metro: St. Sébastien–Froissart
Merci turns retail therapy into a do-gooder enterprise: A portion of every sale at this printer-turned-fashion-loft goes to charitable causes handpicked by its founder, Marie-France Cohen. Look for recent collections and rereleases of best-selling designs from the likes of Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, and Alexis Mabille, as well as vintage clothing, jewelry, Merci Annick perfumes from Goutal (at up to 40 percent savings), and flowers. Upstairs, you'll find children's wear and home wares; lunch at the downstairs restaurant is about $45 per person. As if that weren't enough, there's also a storefront bookshop and café that stocks titles in several languages.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.
31 Rue du Faubourg-Bretonnière
Tel: 33 3 80 22 10 02
In operation since 1840, the family-operated Fallot factory is the only mustard mill that still uses Burgundian mustard seed (most producers source their seeds from Canada). Now run by Marc Désarménien, the grandson of founder Edmond Fallot, the modern production facility at the edge of Beaune is open for hour-long tours in which you can watch mustard being milled, mixed, and packaged. Next door, in a reconstruction of the original mill, a museum traces the history of mustard from antiquity to the present, and you can sample Fallot's half-dozen types of mustard—including one that's gingerbread-flavored—in the boutique. The only problem is that after tasting them, you'll have a hard time going back to industrial varieties.—David Downie
Tours by appointment only through the Office de Tourisme de Beaune (33-3-80-26-21-30; firstname.lastname@example.org).
6 Rue de Bourgogne
Tel: 33 1 47 05 11 15
In a tidy street behind the Parliament buildings of the Seventh, Naila de Monbrison's enchanting jewelry gallery is an invitation to travel—if just with your wallet. Unlike mass-produced jewelry, each object here is original, made by an assortment of international artists, and each carries a piece of history—stones found in South American riverbeds, literally washed with time, or tenderly turned coral from Yemen that spikes out from a silken cord. Prices are not cheap, however: The coral piece mentioned is $6,050.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
93 Rue du Bac
Tel: 33 1 42 84 00 82
Metro: Rue du Bac
With the opening of Pâtisserie des Rêves in fall 2009, celebrated pastry chef Philippe Conticini has made a much-noted return to the forefront of the city's pâtisserie scene. Updated classics such as the Paris–Brest (choux pastry with a crème filling and a praline heart) and the St.-Honoré (flaky pastry layered with mascarpone, vanilla crème, caramel, and featherlight whipped cream) as well as new favorites—including the 100-percent-chocolate Grand Cru (a mousse-filled masterpiece) and seasonal tartes—are displayed like jewels under glass domes. Best of all, Conticini's treats are among the most reasonably priced in town: An outsize madeleine costs about $3; an individual fig tart is about $7. No wonder there's always a line.
Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to 8:30 pm, Sundays 8:30 am to 2 pm.
5 Rue Alphonse Karr
Tel: 33 4 93 85 35 19
This shop is like a culling of the best Parisian flea markets, brought down south. Silk wallpaper lines the narrow space, a perfect backdrop for the vintage luxury objects on display: antique jewels, picture frames in beaten silver, and used-but-pedigreed watches retrofitted in-house (and guaranteed). The service is friendly and immediate, befitting a store so small you can barely turn around.
Open daily 10 am to 7 pm.
Jardins du Palais Royal
156 Galerie de Valois
Tel: 33 1 42 60 59 75
Metro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre
Pierre Hardy's creations for Balenciaga are more sculptures than shoes, and the jewelry (in addition to footwear) he designs for Hermès are enough to earn him demigod status. In addition to these two high-profile successes, Pierre Hardy—one of fashion's most talented, and modest, brainiacs—also has two stores under his own label. His knack for twisting the classic codes of good taste into stilettos that are fun, sexy, and even comfortable has won him legions of fans (Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Madonna among them), and his futurist sneakers are often spotted on hipsters such as the members of Daft Punk and the Strokes. Hardy's original shop in the Palais Royal feels no bigger than a shoe box, while the light-filled Left Bank store seems more like an art gallery (9–11 Place du Palais Bourbon, 75007; 33-1-45-55-00-67).
Open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.
72 Rue Bonaparte
Tel: 33 1 43 54 47 77
Metro: St. Sulpice or Mabillon
Dubbed the "Picasso of Pastries," Pierre Hermé has a virtual kingdom of dessert-related entreprises, including three boutiques in Paris, a sideline in cookbooks, and a school of "haute pâtisserie." His radical approach to dessert and chocolate-making arrives in "collections" of new sweets every so often. Concoctions feature wondrous pairings like rose and lychee, but he also creates "classiques," rigorous reworkings of traditional French products. He has two Left Bank shops: The original, on Rue Bonaparte, is like a minimalist jewel box; the other is bright and Pop-minimalist (185 Rue de Vaugirard, 75015; 33-1-47-83-89-96). At Macarons & Chocolats, opened in 2009, a couple of dozen variations on the theme range from the best-selling passion fruit and chocolate macarons—a bite of heaven at about $2.70 each—to tribal mask–shaped chocolates originally created for the Quai Branly museum.
Rue Bonaparte shop open Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 7 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 7:30 pm, and Sundays 10 am to 7 pm.
Macarons & Chocolats open daily 10 am to 7 pm.
Place des Lices
Every Tuesday and Saturday, this lively, fragrance-filled open-air market gets crowded with locals and visitors alike. Held under the trees in the Place des Lices, it's perfect for filling one's beach picnic basket with fruit, cheese, bread, sausage—or trinkets such as olivewood trays and serving utensils. Don't come by car: The nearest garages fill up immediately, and there's minimal on-street parking. Walk or bike, and come early for the good stuff.
Détain et Bruant
Tel: 33 3 80 61 42 50
Potters Florence Gonin and Wulf Rohland—she Parisian, he German—are bona fide artists who appreciate the beauty of kitchenware and enjoy knowing that their pots, cookie jars, bowls, and plates will be used. Even though their objects are thoroughly practical, they're also exceptionally beautiful—often hand-painted with intricate patterns in celadon green, ferrous blue, copper red, black, ocher, and terra-cotta. You'll find their charming workshop a few miles due west of Nuits-Saint-Georges amid Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits vineyards and black currant plantations.—David Downie
Open by appointment only.
16 Rue Georges Clemenceau
Tel: 33 4 94 97 19 55
If there's any single accessory that's indelibly associated with St. Trop (besides breast implants), it's the gladiator-style sandals that have been handmade by the Rondini family since 1927. These strappy sandals for men, women, and children come in all kinds of colors and leathers, including snakeskin and crocodile. Even better, they're thick-soled, comfortable, and last forever. But wearing new Rondinis around town is totally uncool. Break 'em in at home.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 12:30 pm and 3 to 7:30 pm.
71-73 Rue des Saints-Pères
Tel: 33 1 45 48 88 37
For those who like to be pretty through-and-through, Sabbia Rosa has been nirvana since 1976. Lingerie fetishists the world over crowd into her tiny light-green shop in the heart of Saint Germain to buy her delicate silk slips, camisoles trimmed with handmade French lace, and robes. Her wares are made in more than 30 colors, and the patterned versions are changed each 15 days. Above all, don't leave without a lingerie bag: a generous flower of tied-up silk that doubles as an evening bag.
Open daily 10 am to 7 pm.
Jardins du Palais Royal
Metro: Palais RoyalMusée du Louvre
Prior to the French Revolution, the Palais Royal was one of the most vibrant (and debauched) hangouts in the city—a hive of shops, cafés, theaters, and ladies of little virtue. It was here, in fact, that Camille Desmoulins whipped his listeners into a Bastille-storming frenzy on July 13, 1789. Today, these elegant gardens are still anchored by two survivors, La Comédie Française (on the southwest corner) and Le Grand Véfour (on the northern side). As quirky shops specializing in coins and vintage medals have ceded to a younger, fashion-forward crowd, the Palais Royal has become a trendy shopping destination. Alongside senior tenant Didier Ludot (who has been selling vintage couture here for over 30 years), international labels such as Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, and Acne have found a home among the Palais Royal's poetic arcades. You'll also discover the one-of-a-kind Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido by Serge Lutens; a Pierre Hardy shoe boutique; the up-and-coming leather house Corto Moltedo; and galleries, such as Joyce and IBU, for haute art, objects, and jewelry.
6 Rue La Vieuville
Tel: 33 1 42 23 41 40
To stock this well-curated boutique above the Place des Abbesses, Roberta Oprandi oversees the clothing and a collection of unusually comfortable, jewel-toned ballet flats, while her husband, Bruno Hadjadj, hunts down the work of mid-century Flemish and Belgian designers (the kind that Design Within Reach hasn't branded yet). There may be some familiar labelsone of the more sober, tailored pieces from Comme des Garçons, draped dresses from Prairies de Paris, or a great pair of leather Wellingtons by Pierre Hardybut the selection is rigorously vetted with a sharp eye, so even the choice of Marc Jacobs bags looks fresh. Plus, the exceptionally friendly sales staff stands ready to give you kindly feedback on how those Notify jeans really look.
Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.
2 Avenue Paul Rousel
Tel: 33 4 94 97 77 68
Your beach towel is almost as important an accessory as your bathing suit (and that broken-in Rondini sandal!). So leave the ratty terry cloth at home and shop at this upmarket boutique for a St. Trop–worthy spread. The luxurious oversized Egyptian cotton comes in colors to match or flatter nearly every bikini bottom. Stranos also carries a great selection of bathrobes and bed linens.
Open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 3:30 to 11:30 pm.
36 Rue Georges Clemenceau
Tel: 33 4 94 97 71 42
St. Tropez has its very own dessert, the namesake pastry of this friendly bakery. The tarte Tropezienne is an airy and addictive brioche filled with pastry cream and sprinkled with large crystals of sugar, and it's absolutely delicious. (Bikini wearers might limit themselves to one.) The bakery also sells fine breads and fruit tarts. There are two other locations, on Boulevard Louis Blanc and Place des Lices.
Open daily 6 am to 11pm.
Caves des Cordeliers, located beneath a 13th-century convent, is extravagantly touristy, but it's worth a visit for the slightly kitsch but entertaining experience. It's like a theme park of wine, complete with racks of dusty bottles and old winemaking equipment. Buy an etched wine glass here and you get to taste five wines free of charge. Next door, in the same underground labyrinth of cellars, Marché aux Vins leads guided tastings of 15 Burgundy Crus. Denis Perret, a compact wine shop on the main square, is best for serious connoisseurs—there are hundreds of top Burgundy wines in stock, and the staff specializes in rare wines.—David Downie
Caves des Cordeliers open Fridays through Tuesdays 9:30 am to 7 pm, May through September; 10 to 11:30 am and 2 to 5:30 pm, October through April 1. Closed Christmas Day and three weeks in January.
Marché aux Vins open daily 9 am to 5:30 pm, July and August; 9 to 11:30 am and 2 to 5:30 pm, September through June.
Denis Perret open Mondays through Fridays 9 am to noon and 2 to 7 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm. Also open Sundays 10 am to noon, Easter through late November
Set amid the vineyards of the Serein River valley, prosperous Chablis is surrounded by seven Grand Cru vineyards. On Sunday mornings, vendors sell wine and local produce at Le Marché Bourguignon, an outdoor market on the main street, Rue Auxerroise. Premium winemaker Michel Laroche's cellars are located in a 1,100-year-old monastery complex near Chablis's main church (22 Rue Louis Bro; 33-3-86-42-89-00). The cellars are open by appointment only, but you can taste and purchase the wines at the Domaine Laroche shop or sample them by the glass at the Laroche Wine Bar. Founded in 1923, the La Chablisienne co-op winery is one of Burgundy's biggest and best, producing everything from Petit Chablis to Château Grenouille Grand Cru. It's easy to visit the tasting and exhibition rooms without an appointment (vineyard and winery visits are by appointment only). From picture windows in the tasting room, you can see the thousands of oak barrels stacked in the cellar.—David Downie
Domaine Laroche open daily 9 am to 7 pm or by appointment.
La Chablisienne open daily 9 am to 12:30 pm and 2 to 6 pm, January and February; 9 am to 12:30 pm and 2 to 7 pm March through June and September through December; 9 am to 7 pm, July and August.
Friendly owners Jean-Luc Roblin and Adrien Tirelli carry about 450 French wines at La Carte des Vins—about a third are Burgundies, and all come from excellent estates, including Alain Michelet of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Rapet Père et Fils of Pernand-Vergelesses. Aux Grands Crus, an independent wine boutique, has an impressive 15th-century cellar, where wine master Philippe Perrin keeps his premium Grand Cru vintages and rare wines. Call ahead and Perrin can organize a tasting.—David Downie
La Carte des Vins open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.
Aux Grands Crus open Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm and by appointment.