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Ubiquitous Chip, Glasgow

12 Ashton Lane
West End
Scotland G12 8SG
Tel: 44 141 334 5007's insider take:

When he opened The Chip in the heart of the West End way back in 1971, the late Ronnie Clydesdale was one of the earliest chefs to realize that boosting Scotland's natural produce was the key to propelling the country out of the culinary backwater it was stuck in. Almost 40 years later, every chef with ambition is similarly rigorous in naming his sourcing. At The Chip today, this means that the black-face heather-fed lamb is noted as coming from Smeaton Farm, while the rabbit accompanying the pear and pistachio sausage nibbled its last blade of grass in Dumfriesshire. If you really want to give the credit card a workout, the Chip's wine list—particularly the Bordeaux section—makes interesting reading.

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