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Cafe Gandolfi, Glasgow

64 Albion Street
Merchant City
Scotland G11 NY
Tel: 44 141 552 6813's insider take:

Serving modern Scottish cuisine, this local favorite in the old Merchant City Cheese Market was the first place to reclaim the now-jumping neighborhood back in 1979, and it's still pulling them in enough to require adding a bar in 2002. Inside, custom-carved wood chairs are tinged with color from the stained-glass tangle of blue fish in the front window. The all-day menu runs from eggs en cocotte through sandwiches and linguine to the popular "Gandolfi Standards" (smoked venison with gratin dauphinoise, Cockburns of Dingwall haggis, and New York pastrami!). Try not to be so dazzled by the Standards that you miss the Cullen skink (a traditional smoked haddock soup), smoked mackerel pâté with oatcakes, or Stornoway black pudding with mushrooms and pancakes.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.