26 Calle Navas
Tel: 34 958 227 070
This city center bar is famous for its superb tapas, which are slapped onto a zinc counter along with your glass of Manzanilla or foaming Alhambra beer (the tasty local brew). Seafood is a specialty, perfectly fried in a light batter. And try the featherlight eggplant slices.
Closed Sunday and Monday.
Plaza de las Pasiegas
Tel: 34 958 535 766
This designer tapas bar on the little square beside the main door of the cathedral is a good place for a beer or glass of wine and a tapa or two at midday. If the look is Barcelona (metal floor, purple chairs), the kitchen tends toward Bilbao. Pinchos such as avocado, apple, and langoustine tartlets or prawn-and-bacon brochettes are creative and delicious.
13 Calle Almireceros
Tel: 34 958 223 222
The classic choice around the Plaza Nueva. An ancient tavern serving good tapas including cheese and Trevélez hams from the Alpujarras mountains. As in all decent Granada bars, a free small bite is offered with your drink.
9 Calle Santa Escolastica
Tel: 34 958 227 010
A pleasant hangout in the Realejo area, popular with local thirtysomethings. The specialty is montaditostoast with every imaginable topping, from artichoke and melted Manchego cheese to tuna with roasted piquillo peppers.
81 Camino Del Monte
Tel: 34 958 223 094
This down-home, family-run eating house is in the heart of Sacromonte, an eccentric neighborhood where much of the population (mostly gypsies) lives in caves, putting on overpriced flamenco shows for tourists. The Juanillo rises above all that in a one-room dining space with a few tables, terra-cotta plates, and great views from its open-air porch. The foodSpanish ratatouille called pisto, baby lamb chopsis plain, authentic, hearty, and good value. The owners are given to breaking out the guitars and engaging in some impromptu flamencoand if you are interested in one of those gypsy shows, they can arrange it. (Leave most of your money back at the hotel, though; these shows are designed to fleece you.) Book ahead.
Closed Sunday evening and Monday.
8 Calle de Atarazana
Tel: 34 958 286 925
For an unencumbered view of the Alhambra, nab a seat on the large, sunny terrace of this restaurant, just below the Mirador de San Nicolás. In inclement weather and on winter evenings, head inside and downstairs, where the dining room has huge windows on the same stunning outlook. Inevitably, given the location, prices are on the steep side, but the dishes are imaginative and portions generous. The bread selection alone is a plus point; choose from olive, sunflower, garlic, and onion. Try the salad of arugula, pear, endive, blue cheese, and walnuts, and the tasty aromatic couscous topped with lamb or juicy zucchini, pumpkin, and almonds. Vanguard desserts include quince soup, and chocolate and basil coulant. On the downside, the service can be a little frosty, but that knockout view makes up for it.
Open daily 1 to 3:30 and 8 to 11:30 pm.
2 Calle Pianista García Carrillo
Tel: 34 958 228 290
This is the first and best of the carmen restaurants that are now so much in vogue (carmen is the grandest type of Albaicín house). Tables are set out on various terraces, and food hovers between traditional Granadino cooking and the pre-Christian culinary heritage. Feast on cardoons with an almond sauce, baby broad beans with ham, a fantastic local sheep cheese flavored with rosemary, and jamón de Trevélez (cured ham). Wash it all down with organic wine from the restaurant's own vineyards. On Tuesdays at 11 p.m., the place transforms into a flamenco hall.
Closed Sunday evening.
12 Calle Oficios
Tel: 34 958 221 223
Near the cathedral, the Sevilla was founded in 1930 and became a favorite haunt of native poet Federico García Lorca and his artistic friends. Nearly 80 years on, its dining room remains essentially unchanged. The menu is classically Granadinotry the habitas con jamón (baby broad beans with ham), the regional dish par excellence.
Closed Sunday evening.
1 Paseo de los Tristes Padre Manjón
Tel: 34 958 226 882
Situated next to the river, this lively restaurant is where the young and trendy get their sustenance, drawn in by the simple, modern interior and abstract art. The creative Argentinean chef favors unusual meat combos—lamb in cumin sugar with chocolate sauce, pork with vanilla purée, lamb with golden syrup—which may not be to your taste if you don't have a sweet tooth. More traditional dishes are also given a twist; we like the almond soup with paprika crunch, and remojon (cod and orange salad) with a mustard and curry vinaigrette. From the wine list, try a bottle of the Barranco Oscuro, a good dry white from the nearby Alpujarras. And ask for a window seat for a view of the Alhambra, which towers above the hill opposite the restaurant. In fine weather, the shady riverside terrace is also a delightful spot.
Open Sundays through Thursdays 1 to 11 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 1 pm to midnight.
Carretera de la Sierra
Cenés de la Vega
Cenes de la Vega
Tel: 34 958 486 134
This roadside restaurant in the village of Cenés de la Vega is well worth the two-mile drive out of town for some of the best regional cuisine anywhere near Granada. Grilled meats, fish cooked in rock salt, and seasonal game (including ostrich, partridge, and wild boar) are just some of the specialties that might appear on the ever-changing menu.