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48, Athens

48 Klefton and Armatolon
Tel: 30 210 641 1082's insider take:

Cypriot-born chef Christoforos Peskias is equal parts magician and technician. The food at this lounge-y, recently renovated eatery remains solidly Aegean, delicious, and fresh—but there's science behind his creations. Peskias (who trained with Ferran Adriá) grew up hunting hare and making stifado with them; now he carefully stews them under vacuum at exactly 154ºF so as to properly caramelize the onions. The veggies that accompany his popular pork souvlaki are so thinly sliced they could have been cut with a laser. And toppings you can choose on the signature peinirli—like doughy, open-faced calzones—include pancetta, quail eggs, truffles, sweetbreads and sea urchins. The interior is suitably futuristic and monochromatic—it is, after all, part of the Ileana Tounta art gallery. Advance reservations are a good idea.

Closed June through August. Closed Sundays September through May.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.