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Baraka, Budapest

Andrássy Hotel
111 Andrássy út
Pest, District VI
Hungary 1063
Tel: 36 1 483 1355's insider take:

Widely considered to be one of the best kitchens anywhere east of the old Iron Curtain, Baraka has only gotten better since moving in spring 2006 from a beloved downtown location to a slicker, bigger, and less-crowded spot inside the Andrássy Hotel, at the far end of the city's favorite boulevard. Tables in the space-age banquet hall (long and dark, with black and purple walls and silver trim) are separated by pewter vases filled with tall, fresh lilies. The staff is very helpful and knowledgeable about all kinds of Hungarian wines—a region where most of us need guidance. Prices aren't cheap—main courses start at $25—but are always worth it: A wing of pan-seared red snapper, drizzled with porcini butter, arrives on a fragrant cloud of ginger mashed potatoes, and seared goose liver is served on toasted brioche in a port–red currant sauce. Bargain hunters should make a weekday lunch reservation and order two courses of the same creative cooking for around $15.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.