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L'Ecrivain, Dublin

109A Lower Baggot Street
Ireland 2
Tel: 353 1 661 1919's insider take:

Hidden away in Dublin's Georgian neighborhood, L'Ecrivain is a small restaurant built on a split level, with a high, peaked ceiling and blond woods that lend it a Scandinavian feel. Chef/owner Derry Clarke gives local ingredients—Dublin Bay prawns, West Cork lobster—the French treatment and has won a Michelin star for his efforts. The hefty wine list of 200 bottles is regularly updated, as is the seasonal menu, with its emphasis on smaller producers. While L'Ecrivain is an upmarket choice, the vibe here is very relaxed, with a pianist tinkling away on the baby grand on Fridays and Saturdays. Despite Clarke's recent ill-advised media adventures (Fáilte Towers, anyone?), he remains one of the few Michelin star chefs you'll find smiling and having the craic as he signs dishes off from an open-plan kitchen. Book early.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 12:30 to 2 pm and 6:30 to 10:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.