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Locanda dell'Isola Comacina, Ossuccio

Isola Comacina
Tel: 39 0344 55 083's insider take:

Lunch at the remarkable Locanda dell'Isola Comacina is literally a trip. The only access to this uninhabited Lake Como island is by boat from Sala Comacina, and the meal combines a rustic feast with a delightfully hokey homespun floor show. You might think you have had enough after the eight antipasti, grilled trout, sautéed chicken, cheese, dessert, brandied coffee, and all the wine and water you can drink. But that's when owner Benvenuto Puricelli deploys brandy and coffee while recounting a well-worn history of the island in the "exorcism of fire," a choreographed ritual designed to expiate a curse put on the island by a 12th-century bishop of Como. True, the set-price menu is a bit steep for what you get, but the experience is worth it.

Open Wednesdays through Mondays noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm from March through May and September through October, daily noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm from June through August.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.