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Domaine des Hauts de Loire, Onzain

Route de Herbault
France 41150
Tel: 33 2 54 20 72 57's insider take:

The elegant restaurant of this château-hotel lost a Michelin star a few years ago, but the second star chef Rémy Giraud regained in 2008 is proof positive that things are back on track. Giraud's self-proclaimed classico-modern style results in subtly innovative dishes such as scallops with pears, a potato and eel salad, beef poached in white Montlouis wine, and, of course, the excellent local game in winter. There are three dining rooms: one, classic, under beamed ceilings and two more lined with modern art and outfitted with elaborate place settings.

Open Wednesdays through Sundays 12:30 to 2 pm and 7:30 to 9 pm, March through November; open Mondays and Tuesdays only on public holidays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.