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Eleven, Lisbon

Rua Marquês de Fronteira
Jardim Amália Rodrigues
Portugal 1070
Tel: 351 21 386 2211's insider take:

Eleven gets its name from the 11 friends who, determined to install a world-class restaurant in their beloved city, enticed Joachim Koerper, famed, much-garlanded chef of Alicante's Girasol, to do the culinary honors. They installed him in a suitably incredible location, above the Parque Eduardo VII, with spectacular panoramas spread out at diners' feet. Cutting no corners, they built this modern two-story building with plate-glass windows and outfitted it with costly linens and upholstered slipper chairs and installed the work of two important contemporary Lisboeta artists, Joana Vasconcelos and Gorge Crud. Koerper produces emphatically seasonal food using all local produce; here basing his dishes on the Portuguese canon—yes including bacalhau and with appearances by vinho do Porto and peixes do dia (fish of the day). Whether Lisbon's most ambitious restaurant turns out to be hubris or genius, time will tell, but it's hard to see how the sum of these parts can fail.

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