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Bica do Sapato, Lisbon

Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazém B
Santa Apolonia
Portugal 1900
Tel: 351 21 881 0320's insider take:

Yes, it's true. John Malkovich, the actor, is one of the owners of this expensive, megatrendy dockside sushi bar, restaurant, and bistro. Now we've got that out of the way: Is it any good? Well, it's certainly fun. One of Malkovich's partners is local entrepreneur Manuel Reis, who also helped revitalize the docks around Santiago Calatrava's Gare do Oriente. Reis has installed Knoll and Saarinen originals in front of walls painted wild pinks and purples in this former warehouse. Mozambique-born chef Fausto Airoldi's cooking is occasionally gimmicky (reindeer and buffalo are on the menu; bacalhau comes with chickpea ice cream), but also robust and even, some say, great, especially when it comes to Portuguese comfort food staples such as roast saddle of rabbit stuffed with sausage and apples. But it's true: You're not here to eat.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.