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Primo, Rockland

2 S. Main Street
Rockland , Maine
Tel: 207 596 0770's insider take:

Don't let the 19th-century, Victorian exterior fool you: Primo is about as au courant as it comes in New England, thanks to its 21st-century attitude toward environmental consciousness and sustainable ingredients. Co-owners Melissa Kelly, the executive chef, and Price Kushner, the pastry chef, bring credentials from upstate New York's Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Inn to Primo, whose four-acre gardens and greenhouse allow the restaurant to open from spring until early January. The Tamworth pigs on the property eventually turn into housemade pancetta while Italian honeybees produce honey for the cheese platter. A June menu might include fried artichokes with baby cuttlefish and pan-roasted local halibut with a dessert of homemade cannoli. The wine list, along with tasty drinks such as agave-nectar margaritas, is just as first-rate as the cuisine.

Call ahead for hours.

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