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Chez Etienne, Marseille

43 Rue de Lorette
France's insider take:

This restaurant serves Italian staples, massive steaks, and the best wood-oven pizza in all of Marseilles—and is notoriously hard to find and has no phone number. In addition, there's no menu, no bill (the waiters make very reasonable estimates), and your wine choice will be "red or rosé?" But the food is fantastic. It's also intensely popular, so arrive early. Like any genuine traditional pizzeria, Chez Etienne serves only dinner, but it stays open late.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.