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Ladro, Melbourne

224 Gertrude Street
Australia 3065
Tel: 61 3 9415 7575's insider take:

Most of the marble-topped tables in this convivial eatery are communal—the better for ogling other diners' wood-fired pizzas before you order. Chef Rita Macali's pies are truly sensational: asymmetrical, crispy-crusted, and slightly charred, with first-rate toppings. Try the meat-and-tomato-heavy Badabing, or the pungent puttanesca with capers and olives. Ladro's loyal following among inner-city hipsters and trendy food lovers makes it hard to get a table, so book a week or more in advance. But if you're craving pizza on the go, opt for takeout. It's usually ready in ten minutes: just enough time to down a microbrewed beer at the bar or in the courtyard.

Dinner only. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.