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Dolce & Gabbana Gold, Milan

2a Via Carlo Poerio
Italy 20129
Tel: 39 02 757 7771's insider take:

The little mirror trays next to the hand basins in the restrooms say it all. They're ironic, of course (at least, we didn't see any telltale traces of white powder when we went to wash our hands). But like much else in Dolce & Gabbana's new multipurpose bar, restaurant, bistro, and nightclub, the trays craftily celebrate the very lifestyle they're sending up. And most of the gilded youths who have kept this glitzy new venue fully booked since its October 2006 opening are living that lifestyle without the quotation marks. True to its name, gold is everywhere: in the inverted ingot motifs that decorate the lobby desk and the ceiling, in the stairs that sweep up to the restaurant proper, in the latter's '70s-style chandeliers and monogrammed linen. The menu doesn't try to compete with the decor: Though presentation and the mix of ingredients nod at fusion, deep down this is good old southern Italian cooking, with Sicilian, Puglian, and Calabrian influences. There's also a dieters' version of the menu, a necessary thing in the Italian fashion capital. At street level, the bar has become a popular after-hours meeting spot, despite Gold's out-of-the-way location, just east of the city's inner ring road. On the same level, a spangled, mirrored bistro offers lighter (and cheaper) versions of the dishes served upstairs. Book well in advance, especially when the fashion crowd's in town.

Lunch and dinner daily.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.