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Peshawri, Mumbai

ITC Maratha Sheraton
Tel: 91 22 2830 3030's insider take:

It's a little hard to visit the rugged, war-torn provinces around the Pakistan-Afghanistan border these days. But you can get a taste of the region's cuisine by snagging a corner table at this faux-cave restaurant at the Sheraton in north Mumbai. The rugged decor—tree-trunk tables, beaten copper cups—extends to the dining experience: There are no utensils, so be prepared to eat with your hands and wear a bib. Diners tend to get into the spirit of things, tearing the meat off the bone with their fingers like feudal lords. Try the Sikandari raan, a cinnamon- and cumin-spiced whole leg of lamb; or the dark dal bukhara, a rich blend of black lentils, tomatoes, ginger, and garlic, simmered overnight on coal embers and topped off with cream and butter. It all sits a bit heavy, so try not to pass out at the table.

Open daily 12:30 to 2:30 pm and 7 to 11:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.