Concierge.com's insider take:

Charmingly mismatched plates and cutlery, wine served in juice glasses, and French tables with antique schoolhouse chairs set the scene for Sfoglia's rustic, home-style Italian fare. Chef-owners Ron and Colleen Suhanosky—whose combined experience includes cooking stints at Florence's celebrated Cibrèo, New York's Gramercy Tavern, and Boston's Biba (where they met)—change up the menu twice a month but might dress fluffy gnocchi with a garden pepper-tomato sauce, bake Sicilian orata (sea bream) under egg white soufflé, or crisp chicken under a brick. Ultra-silky panna cotta and killer gelato are the work of Colleen, who cut her sweet tooth working under Gramercy Tavern's Claudia Fleming. In a reversal of the usual sequence of events, they opened a Manhattan outpost by the same name in early 2006 (1402 Lexington Ave.; 212-831-1402).

Open Mondays through Saturdays, December through September.