Concierge.com's insider take:

Compared to sister restaurant the Pearl, the Boarding House is more traditional in both decor and cuisine and has a more casual tone (encouraged by the lively bar). Unfortunately, the wait for a table is only slightly shorter. There's outdoor seating, but given the line of hungry diners wrapping awkwardly around it, request a table inside. The kitchen turns out simple, organic, largely local ingredients (principally fish and shellfish) prepared with Asian and Mediterranean influences, such as grilled swordfish with creamy eggplant; walnut-crusted salmon in a roasted tahini sauce; and seared sea scallops with asparagus, sunchoke, and jasmine rice cakes. For dessert, do as the locals do and order the cinnamon-sugar doughnuts with melted chocolate. The night doesn't end after the kitchen closes—this is where the staff members of other restaurants congregate after work.

Open May through September.