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Bordewijk, Amsterdam

7 Noordermarkt
Netherlands 1015 MV
Tel: 31 20 624 3899's insider take:

Even though it opened in 1985, savvy locals consistently rate this unassuming, canal-side Jordaan restaurant one of Amsterdam's pioneering modern kitchens. The dining room—a generic whitewashed box—is so modestly understated it reads like an afterthought, but the restaurant's loyal, urbane crowd is too smart for faddish decor themes. What keeps them coming back is self-taught chef Wil Demandt's impeccable food. Regularly popping up on the Amsterdam-via-the-Mediterranean daily menus is a pared-down surf and turf of quietly spicy merguez sausage crossed over sweet Dublin bay prawns, and Provençal-style rabbit with red-onion confit over grilled polenta. If you don't finish your plate, Demandt may plod out in his chef's coat and apron, like a Dutch hausfrau, to ask why—proof that this is one restaurant where the local celebrity chef is actually working the kitchen. And, as it turns out, the dining room.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays 6:30 to 10 pm.

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