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Restaurant As, Amsterdam

19 Prinses Irenestraat
Netherlands 1077 WT
Tel: 31 20 644 0100's insider take:

As is the kind of conceptual, experimental kitchen that the Dutch love. On this tranquil, wooded lot on the southern edge of the city, chef Sander Overeinder and his assistants can regularly be found chopping pear wood to feed the restaurant's brick oven and grill. All that labor-intensive sweat produces a limited daily menu, but when the austerely organic, usually locally sourced, family-style food—perhaps a supernal smoked Tuscan pork that's been marinated for five days, roasted in the brick oven, and laid over a bed of parsnips and white beans—lands on the long communal wood tables, you won't regret the lack of choice. (What you might lament is the backless bench you're sitting on). It's all a little like a family backyard barbecue—assuming you have an uncle who, like Overeinder, trained at Chez Panisse and grows his own herbs, and a pastry-chef cousin who can turn out elegant finales, such as almond, apple, and polenta tart.

Open for lunch daily noon to 3 pm, for dinner Wednesdays through Sundays 6:30 to 10:30 pm.

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