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Fyra, Amsterdam

19–23 Noorderstraat
Netherlands 1017 TR
Tel: 31 20 428 3632's insider take:

This centrally located subterranean restaurant, just south of the Prinsengracht, simulates an old-school Dutch kitchen, with low-hanging pink lampshades and damask wallpaper. But the sleek black-leather banquettes and a local crowd of bohos and serious gourmets suggest that this homey refuge isn't going to settle for mere comfort food. Sweet grilled scallops over morel-stuffed brioche represent the kitchen's ambitious approach to upscale locavore cuisine. So does braised veal wearing a fat disk of foie gras. The molten chocolate dessert drizzled with passion fruit sauce makes for a flamboyant finish, although the reasonable prices (entrées hover around $27) bring things back to earth.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Wednesdays through Mondays 6 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.