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29 Geldersekade
Netherlands 1011 EJ
Tel: 31 20 737 0811's insider take:

Oddly, in a city that has always prized the quirky and rebellious, a lot of Amsterdam's most vaunted recent kitchens favor a formal Franco–Dutch approach (stiff tasting menus, small overdecorated dining rooms, big floral displays). Among that slightly stuffy, fancy food group, the Lastage justifies the high prices (which can stay moderate if you stick to the three-course tasting menu) and precious sensibility. Located on the edge of the red light district in a 17th-century canal house, the restaurant features chef Rogier van Dam's delicately composed plates and a very serious 12-page wine list devoted largely to southern European labels. Van Dam does best by his elegant seafood dishes, which can veer from an octopus terrine to halibut with beetroot purée.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Wednesdays through Sundays 6 pm to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.