Bobo, West Village
New York City , New York
Tel: 212 488 2626
Concierge.com's insider take:
Bobo may be the most accessible of New York's glitzy insider restaurants. Unlike Freemans (hidden in an alley) and the Waverly Inn (co-owned by Vanity Fair's Graydon Carter), there's no need to know a guy who knows a guy. Mere mortals can score prime-time reservations with relative ease by calling a week or two in advance. The bi-level brownstone jewel box feels like a shabby-chic European apartment, with mismatched antiques in the dining room, old family photos on the walls, a few inviting tables on a backyard patio, and lively greenmarket food served on hand-me-down china. Though they nailed the style down immediately, it took awhile to back it up with substance, going through three chefs in the first year. Patrick Connolly, on board since August 2008, seems to have gotten it right, focusing on seasonal ingredients, such as crispy veal sweetbreads paired with pear, lentils, and Serrano ham, or duck lavished with a date puree, hazelnuts, and chorizo. Many dishes reference Asia, from pork chops with curry and carmelized fennel to daurade with miso consommé and ginger butter. Desserts range from homespun (plum-blackberry crisp) to luxurious (panna cotta with huckleberries and white chocolate), just like the decor.
Open Sundays through Wednesdays 6 to 11 pm, Thursdays through Saturdays 6 pm to midnight.