Concierge.com's insider take:

Frenchman Alain Ducasse, the most Michelin-starred chef on the planet, has struggled for years to conquer New York. His first foray—an exorbitant haute cuisine showcase on Central Park South—suffered through lukewarm reviews and a revolving-door procession of executive chefs. In the end, Ducasse decided to close the place down. Adour, the new restaurant a few blocks south that rose to replace it, works overtime to correct the misjudgments of that first gilded endeavor. The dining room, by top designer David Rockwell, is opulent without being stuffy, with gauzy glass lining the walls like translucent wallpaper. And the city's snootiest service has given way to some of the warmest. The food, as serious as ever, is somehow more rewarding now that prices are verging on reasonable (entrees start at about $32). Dishes, ranging from delicate (butter-drenched ricotta gnocchi so tender they're almost liquid) to gutsy (caramelized pork belly with rich boudin noir), are at once gorgeous and completely lacking in pretense. Named for a river near Ducasse's hometown, the wine-centric restaurant offers an enormous and intriguing selection by the glass (with a baby-faced sommelier offering eager guidance). Save room, after your feather-light soufflé, for complimentary mini macaroons that are among the best in New York (or take them home to nibble for breakfast).

Open Sundays through Thursdays 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 5:30 to 11 pm.