Concierge.com's insider take:

Frenchman Alain Ducasse, one of the most Michelin-starred chefs on the planet, has struggled for years to conquer New York. His first foray, an exorbitant haute-cuisine showcase on Central Park South that opened in 2000, suffered through lukewarm reviews and a revolving-door procession of executive chefs before closing in 2007. Adour, in the St. Regis hotel, works overtime to correct the misjudgments of that first gilded endeavor. The dining room, by top designer David Rockwell, is opulent without being stuffy; gauzy glass lines the walls like translucent wallpaper. And the city's snootiest service has given way to some of the warmest. The food, as serious as ever, is somehow more rewarding now that some of that pretense is gone. Dishes, ranging from sea urchin pasta to Berkshire pork with smoked ricotta and eggplant, are gorgeous and rich. Named for a river near Ducasse's hometown, the wine-centric restaurant offers an enormous and intriguing selection by the glass (with eager guidance from the sommelier). Save room, after your featherlight soufflé, for complimentary mini macarons that are among the best in New York City (or take them home to nibble for breakfast).—Jay Cheshes

Open Sundays through Thursdays 5:30 to 10:30 pm, Fridays and Saturdays 5:30 to 11 pm.