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Dovetail, Upper West Side

103 W. 77th Street
Upper West Side
New York City , New York
Tel: 212 362 3800's insider take:

Beyond bagels and lox, the Upper West Side has long been one of New York's least exciting food neighborhoods. Though a few high-end restaurants have survived and thrived over the years, it wasn't until John Fraser opened Dovetail near the Museum of Natural History that the area really got New York foodies buzzing. You'll have to reserve at least a week ahead to score a seat in the low-slung modern space behind a barely marked door with tablecloth-free candlelit tables and a casual jeans-with-heels vibe (it's still the Upper West Side after all). Fraser's upscale American food is just safe enough to captivate even the most timid neighborhood palates. A delicious gnocchi starter, featuring corned beef and cabbage, plays to his audience while still managing to be refined and distinct. Beautifully seared cod in a bowl of deconstructed chowder is mostly an excuse to spoil us with bacon, bacon, and more bacon. Desserts, like a peanut butter candy bar on a bed of crumbled pretzels, are equally crowd-pleasing, if a tad on the quirky side.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 5:30 to 11 pm, Sundays 5:30 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.