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Co., Chelsea

230 Ninth Avenue
New York City , New York
Tel: 212 243 1105's insider take:

A pizza revolution has been brewing in New York, with Neapolitan-style thin-crust beauties edging out the classic street slice. Co., in north Chelsea, helped kick off the trend, with fine, blistered pies handcrafted by cult baker Jim Lahey (longtime supplier of bread to some of the city's top restaurants) and finished off in an 800-degree oven. Though the food comes out fast and furious from the no-nonsense kitchen, you should still expect a considerable wait (up to 20 minutes) for a seat. Those seats, by the way, are strictly no-frills: picnic benches around communal wood tables. But the pizza, not the ambience, is the reason to come here (the menu also offers a smattering of salads, crostini, and charcuterie plates). Lahey's chewy crust, showered with toppings both classic (sausage, buffalo mozzarella) and newfangled (asparagus, black truffle, quail eggs), is among the best in New York.—Jay Cheshes

Open Mondays 5 to 11 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 11:30 am to 11 pm, and Sundays 11 am to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.