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Concierge.com

The Standard Grill, West Village

The Standard Hotel
848 Washington Street
West Village
New York City , New York
10014
Tel: 212 645 4100
www.thestandardgrill.com
Concierge.com's insider take:

Searching for solid cooking in the Meatpacking District is like expecting honesty from a politician: Instead of aiming high, most restaurants here pander to the lowest common denominator. The Standard Grill gives us hope for a new era of restaurant integrity in the neighborhood. Wedged under the High Line park, on the ground floor of the aggressively trendy Standard Hotel, it defies expectations with excellent food and a buzzy, inviting room. Chef Dan Silverman (formerly of the Lever House Restaurant and Union Square Café) riffs on the dining room's American chophouse decor—vaulted tiled ceilings, semicircular leather booths, a floor embedded with thousands of copper pennies—with a menu of classic grilled dishes zapped with international touches. For the traditionalist, there are oysters, charcuterie plates, an iceberg salad, and a succulent prime rib for two. More flamboyant palates will enjoy the appetizer of octopus tossed with sweet potatoes and chiles, the chilled white gazpacho with pickled grapes and almonds (Spain is an obvious influence), and the grilled trout served with a relish of pine nuts and currants. Silverman is especially talented with vegetables: His salad of haricots verts—simply dressed with yogurt, cinnamon, and fried shallots—is freshness defined, and every table gets a free dish of patatas bravas, potatoes drizzled with a smoked-paprika aïoli. Yes, free. Indeed, the most pleasant surprise about the Standard Grill is that it's very reasonable (few entrees top $25), especially considering its gouge-'em-and-leave-'em neighbors. On the down side: The room is loud (all those tiles and pennies don't help), and the front door is easily overwhelmed. That's expected in the Meatpacking District, of course. But in terms of culinary achievement, the Standard Grill raises the bar.—Peter J. Frank

Open daily 7 am to 4 am.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.