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Oceana, Midtown

1221 Avenue of the Americas
New York City , New York
Tel: 212 759 5941's insider take:

If the old Oceana was like a luxurious little yacht whose small but devoted staff hovered lovingly while you indulged in elegant food, the new one is much closer to a stately liner. You almost expect to look up and find the captain entertaining privileged passengers in that glassed-in private room that sits smack in the middle of the vast restaurant. But while the ambiance may be different, the chef (and his food) remains the same: Ben Pollinger's seafood-focused menu offers clear flavors and innovative ideas. The fish at the entrance sparkles on its bed of ice. The raw bar lures you to one of the stools. You can have all this pristine fish plain, but you could also opt for a gorgeous tartare of fluke spangled with bits of mango and strips of young coconut. Side dishes range far beyond the usual suspects, offering okra, eggplant, and the like. In a clear bid to appeal to both lunchtime and pre-theater diners, there is even a choice of burgers (salmon or beef). Portions are large, but it's hard to resist dessert when it includes a doughnut platter whose starring player is a little number filled with salted caramel.—Ruth Reichl, first published on

Open Mondays through Saturdays 11:30am to 3pm and 5pm to 11pm; Sundays 11:30am to 3pm and 4 to 10pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.