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Tatlers, Norwich

21 Tombland
England NR1 3RF
Tel: 44 1603 766 670's insider take:

A one-minute walk from the cathedral close is this bi-level bistro that many consider to be Norwich's best casual restaurant. With walls painted in National Trust colors (historically correct hues—a bit of a U.K. cliché, but still good-looking), pine farmhouse tables, bare floorboards, and leather chesterfield sofas in the upstairs bar, the ambience is laid-back—as is the kind, efficient service. Chef Brendan Ansbro's cooking is confident in the extreme: He pulls fresh, seasonal, local ingredients into slightly unusual combinations, such as salt and pepper fried squid with black bean dressing and crispy onions, or Haughley Farm chicken breast with pancetta ragout, wild mushrooms, chorizo, and cabbage and mash. Altogether, this jolly place typifies all that's good about "nouvelle Norfolk." Do reserve ahead, especially for weekends; it's popular.

Closed Sundays.

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