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Paris Shopping

Adelline
54 Rue Jacob
Paris
France 75006
Tel: 33 1 47 03 07 18
Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Prés

The Saint Germain storefront looks seductively like an open gift box: brown velvet, with a few softly lit pieces glowing in its folds. Adeline Roussel (curiously, the proprietress has added another "l" to her shop name) is not often there, more likely working from her studio in Jaipur, India, where she and master craftsmen set semiprecious stones, cunningly cut to look tumbled, in 22-carat gold. The style is reworked classical antique, her clientele the sort of international traveler familiar with the dharma route. Perhaps best is a benign-looking spider brooch with a back of tourmaline and stone-studded feet. The cost? A scary $2,300.

Open Mondays through Fridays 10:30 to 7 pm.

Antiques
Paris
France

Paris is crammed with antique shops, otherwise called brocantes or antiquaires, often full of marvelous assortments of objects. One concentration of shops is in the Carré Rive Gauche, literally a square within Saint-Germain of associated dealers, marked by blue banners; its four sides are formed by the Rue des Saints-Pères, the Rue Jacob (which becomes the Rue de l'Université), the Quai Voltaire, and the Rue de Beaune. The best place to start is a chat with Madame Fortier, who has been running Edouard de la Marque at 2 Rue des Saints-Pères since 1945, and is what the French like to call an oiseau du quartier—someone who knows everyone and everything. Edouard de la Marque specializes in accessible early-to-mid-century furniture (33-1-42-60-71-62). The Rue de Lille has several specialists in Art Deco and mid-century; the Quai Voltaire takes a wide swath, from medieval religious statues to dainty Venetian glass. Down the Rue de Beaune, several curiosités offer tempting displays of oddities (stuffed birds, globes, and miniature beds); a specialist in medical paraphernalia, including skeleton models, prints, and early texts, can be found on the Rue Jacob. Best to look out for the yearly vernissage, or opening, in June, where all participating shops stay open till midnight, put up their best pieces, and serve Champagne.

Chanel
31 Rue Cambon
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 86 26 00
Metro: Madeleine
www.chanel.com

Housed in the former town house where Coco kept an apartment, just off the Place Vendôme, the original Chanel boutique is still the best; for Chanel-holics, it's a visit to the source itself. Coco kept a "daytime" apartment in the building while living at the Ritz, just across the street. More intimate—and less "branded"—than other Chanel shops, the space is an invitation to imagine what it was like to be the chicest woman alive…and to buy a handsomely priced souvenir.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.

Charvet
28 Place Vendôme
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 60 30 70
Metro: Madeleine or Opéra

Charvet is a haven for the well-dressed man, not just for stuffed shirts—though it's filled with them. For more than 150 years, it has been France's best-known and finest custom shirtmaker, but even if this sort of luxury item is not on your shopping list, visit this five-floor complex just off the Place Vendôme to gawk at the spectacle of hundreds of bolts of brightly colored Egyptian cotton. Everything is either custom-made or customizable, including ties, soft pajama sets, handkerchiefs, and suits. Full custom shirts start at $565. The service is attentive and somber.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.

Children's Boutiques
Paris
France

Spend a day in the Luxembourg Gardens and you'll see that French children have as much style as their parents. For a good introduction to vêtements pour enfants, explore the streets around the park, such as the Rue Vavin, the Rue de Seine, and the Rue de Tournon in the sixth, or head to the Rue Condorcet in the ninth. Alice à Paris is like a child's answer to A.P.C.: You'll find simply cut basics for ages one month to 8 years that are smart without being too precious or too pricey. The duffel coats with horn closers (just like Paddington Bear's), drawstring harem-style pants (perhaps in paisley or denim), and Nehru-collar shirts are perennials for the smart younger set. When Michelle Obama came to Paris in June 2009, she shopped for her girls at the Bonpoint flagship at 6 Rue de Tournon in the sixth; downstairs, the restaurant, which looks onto a courtyard, serves salads and Italian dishes at reasonable prices. Equally pricey but less prim, BonTon plays Soho to Bonpoint's Park Avenue with more everyday fashions and an eclectic assortment of toys. (Both Bonpoint and BonTon are best for ages one month through 8 years.) The bright aesthetic of Ube Ule, on the Rue Condorcet in the ninth, focuses on imports from Belgium and Holland (best for ages 4 to 10). The shop is deliberately distracting—like a child's playroom—and is filled with lunchboxes, corduroy pantsuits, the owners' handmade line of printed cotton shirts and dresses, dangling mobiles, stacks of Petitcollin dolls (in production since 1860), and a toy crib (for sale) filled with hand-knit animals. Nearby, Marchand d'Étoiles translates to "merchant of the stars"—referring to dreamtime rather than Angelina Jolie. The jaunty cut of the pajamas (in cotton, linen, jersey, and fleece, for ages one month to 12 years) helps them easily transition from night to day. Among the pj's, you'll also find cosmetics, such as alcohol-free violet perfume, and a private line of pantoufles—dashingly pointy leather house slippers. For babies in particular, Tartine & Chocolat is as sweet as its name, while Jacadi excels in adorable things for model girls and boys up to 12 years.

As a rule of thumb, most stores are open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Christian Louboutin
19 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 36 05 31
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli
www.christianlouboutin.fr

His red soles—sadly now copied by everyone else—make people want to kick up their heels; his Paris boutiques, with their lipstick-red velvet shoe nooks, make you want to kiss the windows, or his feet. France's answer to Blahnik (with a sense of humor), Louboutin continues to invent new forms for his demurely racy designs, including a leg-length twist of satin or (of course) the trash-can heel. It's worth a visit to pay homage to the master at his original boutique in the first; this is where Mme. Hubert, who handles custom orders, is based. The cordonnerie Minuit Moins 7 in the adjacent Passage Véro-Dodat is the only shoe repair shop in the world that can replace your worn-out red soles with the real deal (33-1-42-21-15-47; 24-hour service possible). Louboutin's newest address is a stone's throw from the Élysée Palace at 68 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré in the eighth (33-1-42-68-37-65); there's a third shop at 38 Rue de Grenelle in the seventh (33-1-42-22-33-07).

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7pm.

Cire Trudon
78 Rue de Seine
Paris
France 75006
Tel: 33 1 43 26 46 50
Metro: Odéon or Mabillon
www.ciretrudon.com

Founded in 1643, Cire Trudon is the oldest operating candlemaker in France. The official supplier to Versailles under Louis XIV survived the Revolution and retained its cachet during the Empire: Napoleon's sole gift to his infant son was a Cierge Impériale candle encrusted with three gold coins bearing the emperor's likeness. Cire Trudon still makes candles of all sizes and colors, from simple to scented to sculpted busts of Marie Antoinette. A longtime supplier to palace hotels and luxury houses such as Guerlain and Dior, Cire Trudon began producing its own scented candles in 2006. Notes of rum, leather, and tobacco made the Ernesto an instant hit, while the Spiritus Sancti recalls a stroll through Notre-Dame. Herbal and soliflore candles (introduced in 2009) counterbalance such heady offerings with notes of basil, sage, or sandalwood. For those with a special occasion to commemorate, custom candles can be delivered within 48 hours. Upstairs, a minuscule antiquaire presents a hodgepodge of candle-related objects that range from affordable and portable to anything but.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm.

Colette
213 Rue Saint-Honoré
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 55 35 33 90
Metro: Tuileries or Pyramides
www.colette.fr

L'art de vivre was practically invented in France, so it's not surprising the country has some of the best, and best-known, lifestyle stores. Colette is an ad hoc destination for gimmicky cool, for everything from the newest portable electronics (ever sleeker and smaller) to obscure trance music and impossible heels; the selection of known and emerging fashion matches the store's hipper-than-thou staff.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Dary's
362 Rue Saint-Honoré
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 60 95 23
Metro: Tuileries or Madeleine
darys.fr

The unassuming Dary's bijouterie attracts not only scores of fashionable clients (who snap up everything from bone pendants to jet collars) but magpie starlets like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen. The double entrances are linked inside, with gold on the left and everything else on the right. You'll find Victorian steel-cut chandelier earrings, sweet solitaires, and dainty ivory bracelets. But perhaps the best thing is the charming smile of the proprietor, who, along with her mother, is also a gemologist.

Open Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 6 pm, Saturdays noon to 6pm.

Didier Ludot
Jardin du Palais Royal
20-24 Galerie de Montpensier
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 96 06 56
Metro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre
www.didierludot.com

Back in 1975, Didier Ludot virtually invented the market for vintage in Paris with his eponymous shop in the Palais Royal. Despite his reputation as the international emperor of 20th-century fashion, he can often be seen in the boutique, which sells immaculate haute couture pieces—look for the sternly handsome man with glasses. Across the park in the opposite gallery is another shop devoted to his favorite subject, "La Petite Robe Noire" (also the title of his book, published in 2001). Here, select vintage originals are merely the inspiration for his yearly collection of "petite couture"—hand-finished little black dresses that would do Audrey Hepburn proud. In 2009, he unveiled DL Palais Royal, a collection of lighter-priced LBDs that are younger in spirit; he also carries what he considers "significant" pieces that may even be from last year.

Didier Ludot open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7 pm.

La Petite Robe Noire open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

The Different Company
10 Rue Ferdinand Duval
Paris
France 75002
Tel: 33 1 42 78 19 34
Metro: Saint-Paul
www.thedifferentcompany.com

The name is English and the new boutique looks distinctly Zen, yet the Different Company is the summit of France's perfume-making tradition. In 2000, France's most famous nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, and an ambitious industrial designer, Thierry de Baschmakoff, decided to create a line using only the best ingredients and the most beautiful (and sturdy) hardware. Since Ellena now works exclusively with Hermès, he has handed over the creative direction to his daughter, whose innovations include Night Jasmine, a highly concentrated perfume with over 700,000 flowers per bottle. Though the perfumes are now internationally available (and covetable), it's only here that the company tests scents in wine glasses, furnishes refills, or finds custom crocodile casing for perfume bottles.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 7 pm.

E. Dehillerin
18-20 Rue Coquillière
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 36 53 13
Metro: Chátelet-Les Halles
www.e-dehillerin.fr

Since 1820, this higgledy-piggledy store under the shadow of the Bourse's dome has been a cook's heaven for pro chefs or Sunday dabblers, with racks of copper pots gleaming like halos over the bodies of stainless-steel bain-maries. Whether you're looking for a well-balanced bread knife, an omelet pan, or a fish mold, you'll find virtually every accoutrement, and often at exceptional value (the omelet pan, for instance, is $112). Be warned, the knowledgeable staff's enthusiasm is contagious.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm.

Flea Markets in Paris

The days of true flea-market finds may be long gone, yet aficionados will not be disappointed by the depth and range of Paris's markets, and certainly will be pleased by their still-raucous atmosphere. (For further info, check out www.lechineur.fr, which has a complete listing for all flea markets, temporary or regular, in French.)

The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen claims to be the largest flea market in the world—and if it isn't true, it certainly feels that way. There are technically 15 markets in the mass of buildings and stalls, though many now sell jeans and sneakers. Six markets deal strictly in "antiques" and follow a kind of lazy logic: Vernaison is the first off the main drag, with smaller stands and a kind of grab bag of items, from walking sticks to silver to lamps. Rosiers and Biron are the most officious: The stands are sturdier and glassed-in, and the objects might include gold-leafed, double-facing love seats known as tête-à-têtes. Marchés Serpette and Dauphine hold everything from pool tables to costume jewelry. It's probably Marché Paul Bert that has the most pleasingly diverse range, often decoratively worn items, including rare industrial lamps and muslin-covered Napoléon III love seats (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt, Porte de-St-Ouen; Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, 9:30 am–6 pm). The Marché aux Puces de Vanves is a true brocanteurs market deep in a residential neighborhood in the 15th, a long meandering line of temporary stalls featuring everything from Porcelaine de Paris and tea towels commemorating D-Day to entire vintage kitchens. There are a few excellent art-book dealers and a satisfying variety of silver dealers (for beautiful bone-and-silver salad servers), as well as stalls featuring a broad selection of lithographs, sketches, and even daguerrotypes (Metro: Porte de Vanves; www.pucesdevanves.typepad.com; Saturdays and Sundays 7 am–1 pm). At the Marché aux Puces de Montreuil look past the shampoo, polyester nightgowns, and used tires, because this is also one of the better places to look for vintage non-designer clothing, with everything from the late 19th century through the '80s (dealers are mostly grouped in the right-hand corner as you enter from the périphérique), or just to absorb the atmosphere of polyglot suburban Paris, where herb hawkers mix with rug dealers and battery vendors. For occasional finds in china or mid-century French café ware, elbow your way to the back by the bridge (Metro: Porte de Montreuil; Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 7 am–7:30 pm).

Fragonard
9 Rue Scribe
Paris
France 75009
Tel: 33 1 47 42 04 56
Metro: Opéra
www.fragonard.com

A grande dame on the French perfumery scene (founded in 1926) and one of the rare operations to remain family-owned, Fragonard has morphed into a modern fragrance contender thanks to the efforts of third-generation directors Agnès and Françoise Costa. In addition to producing several lines of perfumes, home fragrances, scented soaps, and skincare products, the company has made a specialty of very affordable and distinctively French gift items, from tableware to makeup pouches as well as bohemian Parisienne basics such as semiprecious jewelry, jackets, and scarves sourced in India. The Rue Scribe boutique is located within a Napoleon III—era hôtel particulier that is home to a perfumery museum (entry is free, and products are sold at cost); other outposts can be found along main arteries in St.-Germain-des-Prés and the Marais, as well as on Rue St.-Honoré.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 9 am to 6 pm, Sundays 9 am to 5 pm.

French Franchises
Paris
France

For a country obsessed with nonglobalization—the market street, the local wine—there is one kind of multiple the French love: boutique franchises. Smart answers to American chains like Banana Republic and J.Crew, this series of stores can be found in most central neighborhoods, and are staples of most French women's closets.

Et Vous does a sleek line of suits and satin dresses that echo (a more economical) Joseph.

Zadig & Voltaire is loved for its fine-gauge knits in summer and chunky cardigans in winter, as well as a good selection of ballerines.

Sandro is more affordable than Zadig & Voltaire but has just as much attitude, making it a go-to address for on-trend seasonal items.

Maje talks to Sandro's pretty younger sister, who favors a funkier, street-inspired look.

Comptoir des Cotonniers, like the name says, specializes in cotton and outerwear, such as sharp trench coats and the perfect-weight T-shirt.

Les Petites is a favorite among bobo (bohemian-bourgeois) clients for its feminine, urban fashions inspired by icons like Brigitte Bardot (circa 1960).

Cotelac offers a sophisticated mix of silky cocktail dresses and skirts, along with well-cut work trousers and, in winter, well-priced boots.

Galerie Maeght
42 Rue du Bac
Paris
France 75007
Tel: 33 1 45 48 45 15
Metro: Rue du Bac
www.maeght.com

Art lovers will recognize the name of France's foremost private contemporary art museum, the Fondation Maeght in St. Paul de Vence. Today, this shop and adjacent gallery are run by Isabelle and Yoyo Maeght, the granddaughters of the art dealer, collector, and editor Aimé Maeght. In addition to presenting temporary exhibitions by today's leading artists, the shop sells mementos of late greats such as Calder, Matisse, and Braque ranging from greeting cards to vintage posters, books (Maeght is a renowned publisher), and lithographs. Many items are both distinctive and affordable, such as reissues of exhibition posters (about $35) and collectible children's books by Warja Lavater (about $65), while original limited-edition lithographs by Chagall, Miró, or Giacometti can run upward of $40,000.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 9:30 am to 7 pm.

Gaspard Yurkievich
43 Rue Charlot
Paris
France 75003
Tel: 33 1 42 77 42 48
Metro: Filles de Calvaire
www.gaspardyurkievich.com

The bad boy of French fashion, Gaspard Yurkievich has been roughing up pretty girls (and boys) since 1995. In his grittily glamorous boutique, all steel and wood, in the fashionable Third, his clothes are a torqued marriage of Vivienne Westwood and Anna Karina—like tough-angled jackets in damask, and fine-knit stockings with decorative spiders peeking out of their webs. Clients include dealers from the concentration of avant-garde art galleries nearby, who understand that even grown-ups want to be punky sometimes.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Hermès
24 Rue du Faubourg St.-Honoré
Paris
France 75008
Tel: 33 1 40 17 47 17
Metro: Concorde
www.hermes.com

The original Hermès store on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré was one of the first to open on the new 19th-century street and recalls the tradition of "grands magasins" writ in miniature—four elegant and wood-carved floors of pure equestrian-themed pleasure. Aside from the usual range of signature watches, scarves, trunks, and bags—and the Gaultier-designed womenswear collection—they also have housewares, menswear, porcelain collectibles, riding boots, and, for the truly horsey, a custom saddlery. In November 2010, the house will be making a long-overdue jump to the Left Bank. Until that much-anticipated shop debuts at 17 Rue de Sèvres, in the seventh arrondissement, a temporary boutique welcomes customers nearby at 16 Rue de Grenelle (33-1-53-63-02-19).

Open daily 10:30 am to 6:30 pm.

Isabel Marant
6 Rue de Charonne
Paris
France 75011
Tel: 33 1 49 29 71 55
Metro: Ledru-Rollin
www.isabelmarant.tm.fr

If you've ever wondered how French women seem to walk an elegant line between casual and formal, chic without being identifiably fashionable, you'll find it may be because they are wearing an Isabel Marant outfit. Her easy, portable clothes are available in three shops as varied as her clientele: this one in the punky Bastille, another in polished St. Germain (1 Rue Jacob, 75006; 33-1-43-26-04-12), and a third in the cool upper Marais (47 Rue Saintonge, 75003; 33-1-42-78-19-24). Her main line often uses nubby Italian weaves in rich shades of pewter and glossy black, cut with cowl necks and nipped waists, including a collection of always covetable coats; her "étoile" line is younger, often using gauzy Indian prints.

Open daily 10:30 am to 7:30 pm.

Karine Arabian
4 Rue Papillon
Paris
France 75009
Tel: 33 1 45 23 23 24
Metro: Cadet
www.karinearabian.com

Armenian-born French shoe designer Karine Arabian has created the perfect pump: round-toed, stable-heeled, but still sexy, and at a price that's north of cheap and south of Blahnik. Whether in supple patent leather or brushed metallic, with etched flower patterns or contrast piping, the consistently elegant profile is beloved of confident women who know what works. Most major French department stores carry Arabian's shoes, but the full line (as well as a small run of accessories, including quilted satchels) is best viewed at the sweet boutique she opened in 2001 on the Rue de Papillon.

Open Mondays 2 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

L'Eclaireur
3 Rue des Rosiers
Paris
France 75004
Tel: 33 1 48 87 10 22
Metro: St. Paul
www.leclaireur.com

L'Eclaireur is the giddy Colette's brainy older cousin. The stores were some of the first to showcase Belgian designers like Ann Demeulemeester next to design pieces by Ron Arad. L'Eclaireur opened its first location in the early '80s on the Champs-Élysées. Now it has six stores in Paris: Most have designs that incorporate raw wood and unfinished steel, and they carry a highly select collection of primarily European mens- and womenswear, as well as jewelry, shoes, accessories—and even a full Italian kitchen unit. The outpost on Rue Boissy d'Anglas includes a L'Etrange Restaurant annex, an homage to Fornasetti that's popular at lunchtime with the fashion crowd. And don't call its Arne Quinze–designed address on Rue de Sévigné in the Marais a "boutique"; it's an "interactive installation," fitted with 147 digital screens designed to showcase cutting-edge fashion. Other shops are at 12 Rue Mahler, 75004 (33-1-44-54-22-11); 26 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 (33-1-45-62-12-32); and 10 Rue Herold 75001 (33-1-40-41-09-89).

L'Eclaireur Rue des Rosiers open daily 11 am to 7 pm.

L'Etrange Restaurant at L'Eclaireur open Mondays 12 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 12 to 7 pm and 8 pm to 1 am.

L'Eclaireur Sévigné open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Ladurée
75 Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Paris
France 75008
Tel: 33 1 40 75 08 75
Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt or Georges V
www.laduree.fr

They did not invent the macaron, but they may have perfected it—which is why Sofia Coppola had all the sweet treats for her film Marie Antoinette special-ordered from Ladurée. It's not hard to see why: In a city full of imitators, Ladurée's caramel has just the right amount of salt, and the rose manages to be flowery and not sickly sweet. It may just be worth buying a dozen for the box, which comes in delicate eggy pastels with a black-stencilled monogram. The fashionable Art Nouveau–inspired Ladurée Le Bar, which is adjacent to the Champs-Élysées address, caters to a late-night crowd with cocktail versions of its celebrated pâtisseries. Other shops in Paris include Ladurée Royale (16 Rue Royale, 75008; 33-1-42-60-21-79) and Ladurée Bonaparte (21 Rue Bonaparte, 75006; 33-1-44-07-64-87).

Ladurée Champs-Élysées open daily 7:30 am to 11 pm.

Ladurée Le Bar open Mondays through Thursdays 9 am to 11:30 pm, Fridays 9 am to 12:30 am, Saturdays 10 am to 12:30 am, and Sundays 10 am to 11:30 pm.

Lavinia
3 Boulevard Madeleine
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 97 20 27
Metro: Madeleine
www.lavinia.fr

Teetotalling President Sarkozy notwithstanding, wine is practically France's national drink—and it's easy to find. There are reliable chains such as Nicolas or Le Repaire de Bacchus—local wine shops that are interesting, if uneven; and even the butcher usually has a few bottles stacked next to the pots of terrine. What Lavinia brought to the scene when it opened in 2002 was quality wines on a superstore scale. Like an oenological Whole Foods, the 15,000 square feet of clean, navigable, modern space just off the Place de la Madeleine holds an expansive collection of French vintages, naturally, along with a selection of biodynamic wines and little-known finds from sources as diverse as Hungary and Uruguay. Lavinia also caters to out-of-town clientele with English-speaking sommeliers, a tasting room and café (for tired feet and empty stomachs), and assistance shipping your purchases home, now that carry-on liquids are a thing of the past.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.

Le Bon Marché
24 Rue de Sèvres
Paris
France 75007
Tel: 33 1 44 39 80 00
Metro: Sèvres-Babylone
www.lebonmarche.fr

Le Bon Marché is a reference for everything a department store (Paris's first) ought to be—from its Gustave Eiffel–designed glass and steel structure to its spacious floors and well-edited selections. You can linger in the ground-floor hat department and consider the millinery confections for the races or a grand wedding, or go up to the second-floor lingerie department for the most delectable display of the best, and frothiest, under-things. And if the shopathon takes its toll, pick up a portable snack at La Grande Épicerie, a tony temple to international food.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 to 8 pm.

Le Prince Jardinier/Deyrolle
46 Rue du Bac
Paris
France 75007
Tel: 33 1 44 55 07 15
Metro: Rue du Bac
www.princejardinier.fr

Prince Louis Albert de Broglie knows a thing or two about cultivating one's garden—it was tending the one at his château near Tours that inspired him to create a shop that caters to the gardening art de vivre. In addition to offering handsome tools and other accoutrements, this store specializes in the kind of gear—country-chic jackets, aprons, and natural fiber bags—that has a life well beyond the garden. The enthusiastic response allowed the prince to twice rescue Deyrolle: Founded in 1831, this unrivaled cabinet of curiosities—and the last true taxidermist on the continent—was saved from bankruptcy by de Broglie in 2001, only to be gutted by fire in 2008. When Deyrolle's space (located above Le Prince Jardinier) rose from the ashes in late 2009, "naturalized" circus animals had returned to the floor, as had other curios of the natural world, from boxes of mounted butterflies and iridescent insects (Yves Saint Laurent was a collector) to assorted crystals, shells, and the odd bat skeleton.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 7 pm, closed at lunch hour on Mondays.

Louis Vuitton
101 Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Paris
France 75008
Tel: 33 1 53 57 52 00
Metro: Georges V
www.louisvuitton.com

Louis Vuitton's luxurious Champs-Élysées flagship is not just a place to purchase the brand's covetable clothes, bags, and jewelry—it's an ode to fashion and art. Permanent installations inside the store include a James Turrell video that floats at the entrance, and the Espace Culturel, a gallery that houses imaginative contemporary art and travel-related exhibitions, has become a regular stop on the tourist circuit. Olafur Eliasson's sensory-deprivation elevator (a black box that cuts out all external stimuli) whisks visitors to the sixth floor to tour the thrice-yearly shows and enjoy views of the city. Access to the Espace Culturel is easiest from the Rue Bassano; entry is free but numbers are limited, so beware of queues.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.

Mariage Frères
35 Rue du Bourg-Tibourg
Paris
France 75004
Tel: 33 1 43 47 18 54
Metro: Hôtel de Ville
www.mariagefreres.com

Founded in 1854, Mariage Frères is the sine qua non of the tea world. This place is known for the fine quality of its teas, as well as the unusual blends (with new flavors constantly being introduced) and the distinctive black metal pots. Uniformed "tea waiters" serve out loose-leaf with the concentration of jewelers measuring diamonds. Be sure to look at their line of tea-associated objects, including sturdy strainers and canisters, Japanese porcelain cups, and iron teapots. Other shops are at 13 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006 (33-1-40-52-81-50), and 260 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (33-1-46-22-18-54).

Open daily noon to 7 pm.

Maria Luisa
7 Rue Rouget de l'Isle
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 47 03 96 15
Metro: Concorde
www.marialuisaparis.com

If Paris has a priestess of high fashion, it is surely Maria Luisa Poumaillou. A champion of young designers since she opened her original store on the Rue Cambon in the late '80s, she was among the first to recognize budding designers John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, and introduced Parisians to Manolos. A constellation of boutiques followed, which now have been consolidated into two: one for cutting-edge womenswear and another across the street for menswear (38 Rue du Mont Thabor, 75001). Of late, her unerring eye and inherent elegance have won her a new title—that of "fashion editor" to the department store Le Printemps, where she opened an eponymous space in late 2009.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10:30 am to 7 pm.

Marie Papier
26 Rue Vavin
Paris
France 75006
Tel: 33 1 43 26 46 44
Metro: Vavin
www.mariepapier.fr

Paris loves paper; it's a city where visiting cards are still in use, and graveurs can be found in every neighborhood. Since 1977, Marie-Paule Orluc has been the singular resource for handmade papers in unorthodox and bright colors, including a high-gloss lacquer finish. All are available for engraving using traditional techniques. Her line of supple journals, travel notebooks, and even storage boxes are a writer's dream. Her boutique in the 14th is unfussily stuffed with every sort of possibility for a missive, and her friendly staff will even inspire a convivial note.

Open Mondays 2 to 7 pm, Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to 7pm.

Merci
111 Boulevard Beaumarchais
Paris
France 75003
Tel: 33 1 42 77 00 33
Metro: St. Sébastien–Froissart
www.merci-merci.com

Merci turns retail therapy into a do-gooder enterprise: A portion of every sale at this printer-turned-fashion-loft goes to charitable causes handpicked by its founder, Marie-France Cohen. Look for recent collections and rereleases of best-selling designs from the likes of Vanessa Bruno, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, and Alexis Mabille, as well as vintage clothing, jewelry, Merci Annick perfumes from Goutal (at up to 40 percent savings), and flowers. Upstairs, you'll find children's wear and home wares; lunch at the downstairs restaurant is about $45 per person. As if that weren't enough, there's also a storefront bookshop and café that stocks titles in several languages.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.

Naila de Monbrison
6 Rue de Bourgogne
Paris
France 75007
Tel: 33 1 47 05 11 15
Metro: Invalides

In a tidy street behind the Parliament buildings of the Seventh, Naila de Monbrison's enchanting jewelry gallery is an invitation to travel—if just with your wallet. Unlike mass-produced jewelry, each object here is original, made by an assortment of international artists, and each carries a piece of history—stones found in South American riverbeds, literally washed with time, or tenderly turned coral from Yemen that spikes out from a silken cord. Prices are not cheap, however: The coral piece mentioned is $6,050.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Pâtisserie des Rêves
93 Rue du Bac
Paris
France 75007
Tel: 33 1 42 84 00 82
Metro: Rue du Bac
www.lapatisseriedesreves.com

With the opening of Pâtisserie des Rêves in fall 2009, celebrated pastry chef Philippe Conticini has made a much-noted return to the forefront of the city's pâtisserie scene. Updated classics such as the Paris–Brest (choux pastry with a crème filling and a praline heart) and the St.-Honoré (flaky pastry layered with mascarpone, vanilla crème, caramel, and featherlight whipped cream) as well as new favorites—including the 100-percent-chocolate Grand Cru (a mousse-filled masterpiece) and seasonal tartes—are displayed like jewels under glass domes. Best of all, Conticini's treats are among the most reasonably priced in town: An outsize madeleine costs about $3; an individual fig tart is about $7. No wonder there's always a line.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 10 am to 8:30 pm, Sundays 8:30 am to 2 pm.

Pierre Hardy
Jardins du Palais Royal
156 Galerie de Valois
Paris
France 75001
Tel: 33 1 42 60 59 75
Metro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre
www.pierrehardy.com

Pierre Hardy's creations for Balenciaga are more sculptures than shoes, and the jewelry (in addition to footwear) he designs for Hermès are enough to earn him demigod status. In addition to these two high-profile successes, Pierre Hardy—one of fashion's most talented, and modest, brainiacs—also has two stores under his own label. His knack for twisting the classic codes of good taste into stilettos that are fun, sexy, and even comfortable has won him legions of fans (Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Madonna among them), and his futurist sneakers are often spotted on hipsters such as the members of Daft Punk and the Strokes. Hardy's original shop in the Palais Royal feels no bigger than a shoe box, while the light-filled Left Bank store seems more like an art gallery (9–11 Place du Palais Bourbon, 75007; 33-1-45-55-00-67).

Open Mondays through Saturdays 11 am to 7 pm.

Pierre Hermé
72 Rue Bonaparte
Paris
France 75006
Tel: 33 1 43 54 47 77
Metro: St. Sulpice or Mabillon
www.pierreherme.com

Dubbed the "Picasso of Pastries," Pierre Hermé has a virtual kingdom of dessert-related entreprises, including three boutiques in Paris, a sideline in cookbooks, and a school of "haute pâtisserie." His radical approach to dessert and chocolate-making arrives in "collections" of new sweets every so often. Concoctions feature wondrous pairings like rose and lychee, but he also creates "classiques," rigorous reworkings of traditional French products. He has two Left Bank shops: The original, on Rue Bonaparte, is like a minimalist jewel box; the other is bright and Pop-minimalist (185 Rue de Vaugirard, 75015; 33-1-47-83-89-96). At Macarons & Chocolats, opened in 2009, a couple of dozen variations on the theme range from the best-selling passion fruit and chocolate macarons—a bite of heaven at about $2.70 each—to tribal mask–shaped chocolates originally created for the Quai Branly museum.

Rue Bonaparte shop open Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 7 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 7:30 pm, and Sundays 10 am to 7 pm.

Macarons & Chocolats open daily 10 am to 7 pm.

Sabbia Rosa
71-73 Rue des Saints-Pères
Paris
France 75006
Tel: 33 1 45 48 88 37
Metro: Saint-Germain-des-Près

For those who like to be pretty through-and-through, Sabbia Rosa has been nirvana since 1976. Lingerie fetishists the world over crowd into her tiny light-green shop in the heart of Saint Germain to buy her delicate silk slips, camisoles trimmed with handmade French lace, and robes. Her wares are made in more than 30 colors, and the patterned versions are changed each 15 days. Above all, don't leave without a lingerie bag: a generous flower of tied-up silk that doubles as an evening bag.

Open daily 10 am to 7 pm.

Shopping at the Palais Royal
Jardins du Palais Royal
Paris
France 75001
Metro: Palais Royal–Musée du Louvre

Prior to the French Revolution, the Palais Royal was one of the most vibrant (and debauched) hangouts in the city—a hive of shops, cafés, theaters, and ladies of little virtue. It was here, in fact, that Camille Desmoulins whipped his listeners into a Bastille-storming frenzy on July 13, 1789. Today, these elegant gardens are still anchored by two survivors, La Comédie Française (on the southwest corner) and Le Grand Véfour (on the northern side). As quirky shops specializing in coins and vintage medals have ceded to a younger, fashion-forward crowd, the Palais Royal has become a trendy shopping destination. Alongside senior tenant Didier Ludot (who has been selling vintage couture here for over 30 years), international labels such as Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, and Acne have found a home among the Palais Royal's poetic arcades. You'll also discover the one-of-a-kind Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido by Serge Lutens; a Pierre Hardy shoe boutique; the up-and-coming leather house Corto Moltedo; and galleries, such as Joyce and IBU, for haute art, objects, and jewelry.

Spree
6 Rue La Vieuville
Paris
France 75018
Tel: 33 1 42 23 41 40
Metro: Abbesses
www.spree.fr

To stock this well-curated boutique above the Place des Abbesses, Roberta Oprandi oversees the clothing and a collection of unusually comfortable, jewel-toned ballet flats, while her husband, Bruno Hadjadj, hunts down the work of mid-century Flemish and Belgian designers (the kind that Design Within Reach hasn't branded…yet). There may be some familiar labels—one of the more sober, tailored pieces from Comme des Garçons, draped dresses from Prairies de Paris, or a great pair of leather Wellingtons by Pierre Hardy—but the selection is rigorously vetted with a sharp eye, so even the choice of Marc Jacobs bags looks fresh. Plus, the exceptionally friendly sales staff stands ready to give you kindly feedback on how those Notify jeans really look.

Open Mondays through Saturdays 10 am to 8 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.