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Paris

Paris

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Destinations: 
11th Arrondissement,
20th Arrondissement,
Europe,
France,
Paris

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See + Do

Père-Lachaise Cemetery and Ménilmontant-Oberkampf, France

Paris, France
Website: www.pere-lachaise.com

The winding, cobbled paths of Père-Lachaise spread over 100 acres in the 20th Arrondissement, knotting around thousands of historic tombs, giant old trees, flowerbeds, and romantic ruins. Most visitors come to see the famous residents: Abelard and Héloïse, Chopin, Balzac, Oscar Wilde, Proust, Piaf, Gertrude Stein, and, inevitably, Jim Morrison. The cemetery's southern edge is flanked by Boulevard de Ménilmontant, the spinal column of an up-and-coming, multiethnic neighborhood locals call "Ménilmouche," where bars, cafés, and North African, Asian, and kosher restaurants spill across wide sidewalks under arching trees. Intersecting Ménilmontant a couple of hundred yards northwest of the cemetery, Rue Oberkampf extends the hip zone by several city blocks—you'll find hot spots like Café Charbon (109 Rue Oberkampf; 33-1-43-57-55-13) tucked between Turkish eateries and hole-in-the-wall shops.

Eating

Le Temps au Temps, France

13 Rue Paul Bert
Paris 75011, France
Tel: 33 1 43 79 63 40

Bring a shoehorn with you—Le Temps au Temps is one of those cheek-by-jowl Paris places east of the Bastille where a dozen tables share space meant for six. But the service charms, and the bric-a-brac decor with a timepiece theme is fun. Best of all: Chef-owner Sylvain Sendra's extraordinarily good food utterly disarms. Endra comes from Lyon, but you won't find the usual fried tripe or pig snouts on his ever-changing menu. Instead, the meal might start with creamy, flavorful Jerusalem artichoke soup flecked with shaved foie gras and drizzled with pesto, then move on to baked ling cod with whole roasted garlic and tiny fingerling potatoes. À la carte you might find venison stew with wild mushrooms and luscious chocolate crumble cake in a moat of chocolate pastry cream, topped with raspberry sorbet and whipped cream. The downside: Word is out. Artists, architects, hipsters, pearl-draped matrons, and suits keep this neighborhood spot fully booked for lunch and dinner, sometimes weeks ahead.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 2:30 pm and 7 to 10 pm.

Eating

Le Bistrot Paul Bert, France

18 Rue Paul Bert
Paris 75011, France
Tel: 33 1 43 72 24 01

With a friendly, arty crowd and wonderful food, this back-beyond-the-Bastille bistro would be well worth seeking out even if it weren't one of the best buys in town. Don't be put off by the slightly cliquish vibe—no one's going to cold-shoulder you; it's just that this place has a devoted following of regulars, all of whom seem to know one another. So settle into one of the moleskin banquettes, enjoy the snug dining room's flea market kitsch (including a chandelier that looks like it's made of melting ice cubes), and inspect the regularly changing blackboard menu. What's cooking depends on what's in the market, but typical starters include a wild mushroom omelet and sautéed squid with risotto, while mains run to perfectly cooked cod steak with chanterelles and guinea hen with bacon-spiked cabbage. Finish with the serve-yourself cheese tray or the chocolate ganache cake draped in pistachio cream.

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays noon to 2 pm and 7:30 to 11 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.