PRINT PREVIEW
send to printer

Concierge.com

Argentine Patagonia Hotels

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Correntoso Lake & River Hotel
4005 Avenida Siete Lagos
Neuquen
Argentina
Tel: 54 9 2944 619728
info@correntoso.com
www.correntoso.com

In 1917, when Italian pioneer Primo Capraro erected a wooden lodge in the wilderness of north-shore Lake Nahuel Huapi, the only guests brave enough to sail from Bariloche were hardy fishermen eager to land a record-breaking catch from trout-rich Río Correntoso. Today the river's mouth remains an angler's favorite, but much else has changed: Modern amenities can now be found just two miles east in Villa La Angostura, and only the rods and reels lining the walls hint at the lodge's rustic origins. An elegant interior of exposed stone and hand-carved wood, warmed by numerous crackling fires, leads to 31 rooms—an additional 17 are due for completion in 2009—that overlook the lake and snowcapped cordillera beyond. Guests are encouraged to hike, raft, or saddle up and gallop off by day, but there's enough of a draw in the kitchen's expert preparation of Patagonian staples, the library's early-traveler first editions, and the mosaic-tiled hammam with attached indoor/outdoor pool to merit a few lazy days indoors.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
El Casco Art Hotel
Avenida Bustillo, Km 11.5
San Carlos de Bariloche
Argentina
Tel: 54 2944 463131
info@hotelelcasco.com
www.hotelelcasco.com

There's nothing particularly Patagonian about El Casco Art Hotel, despite its privileged lakefront location near tourist hub Bariloche. This place sits beneath hikers' favorite Cerro Otto and Lake Nahuel Huapi, a lake so deep and unexplored it's reputed to harbor its own Loch Ness–style monster, Nahuelito. Following a decade's neglect, El Casco was renovated and reopened in 2007. New owner Ignacio Gutiérrez Zaldívar, a Buenos Aires art collector, has opted for quiet refinement over Bariloche's all-too-prevalent pseudo-Bavarian shtick, hanging more than 300 works of modern Argentine art throughout this sober, impeccable property. Comfort triumphs over cutting-edge design in the 33 ample rooms—each named after a contemporary Argentine artist and sporting a series of paintings by its namesake—and and all have a view of the lapwings, cormorants, and upland geese that cluster along the Nahuel Huapi shoreline. In the restaurant, exec chef Fernando Trocca (owner of buzzing Buenos Aires eatery Sucre) lifts Patagonian staples by pairing turkey with truffles, trout with ginger, and duck with roasted figs and fresh blackberries. Other standout features include a heated indoor/outdoor pool that billows steam into the chilly evening air and a winter transfer service for skiers to a private lounge at the foot of the Cerro Catedral slopes.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
El Pedral Lodge
Punta Ninfas
Argentina 54 11 4311 1919
Tel: 54 11 4311 1919
info@burcoadventure.com
www.elpedrallodge.com

Set atop the same fossil-striped cliffs that fascinated Charles Darwin 170 years ago, El Pedral Lodge boasts its own stretch of coastline, complete with an elephant seal colony, 45 miles from Puerto Madryn, in the northeast province of Chubut. The main house on the 42,000-acre former sheep farm was built in the 19th century in the Norman style with ornamented balustrades and an ocean-view veranda. There are two standard rooms in the main house and eight suites set back from it, all decorated simply—think well-worn wooden floorboards, antique side tables, and mustard-colored rugs and bedclothes. The founding family's mahogany dining table and iron bathtub are still there, along with a spiral staircase that climbs to a cushion-packed turret commanding uninterrupted views over a half-mile-wide pebble bar—the pedral—to the Atlantic beyond. Guests head out on twice-daily forays by sea kayak, mountain bike, or horse, hoping for a close encounter with gray fox, guanaco, or the elusive mara, a Patagonian hare the size of a small dog, while petrels, albatrosses, and oystercatchers checker the sky overhead.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Eolo
Ruta Provincial 11, Km 23
El Calafate
Argentina
Tel: 54 2902 492042
info@eolo.com.ar
www.eolo.com.ar

It's difficult to conceive of a property more defined by desolation than Eolo, a rustic, 12,300-acre lodge in the windswept La Anita valley, 18 miles west of El Calafate. Modeled on a traditional sheep farm, the lodge's corrugated zinc walls and gabled roofs protect a central courtyard from the ever-present elements. A homely rusticity pervades the interior, with carved woods, refurbished antiques, and leather- and corduroy-upholstered furniture to immediately set guests at ease. The lodge is close enough to the landmark Perito Moreno glacier to justify a visit, but a simple hike or bike ride across the property can be just as compelling. Entranced by the setting, many guests are content to squint for hours at the peaks of Torres del Paine darkening the distant horizon or to peer through picture windows as icebergs float through an otherwise parched landscape on glacier-fed Lake Argentina.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Esplendor del Calafate
Pte. Perón 1143
El Calafate
Argentina
Tel: 54 2902 492 454
reservas@esplendorcalafate.com
www.esplendorelcalafate.com

A dusty Patagonian steppe town fronting Lake Argentina, El Calafate survives entirely on visitors to the Perito Moreno glacier, 50 miles to the west. Observing its huge columns of ice makes for a compelling day-trip, and the Esplendor can arrange hikes on the glacier itself. Although the hotel's exterior is unattractively boxy, designer Martín Churba has produced a lavish yet uncluttered interior. Flowing canvas drapes, 15-foot leather sofas, and tables of weathered quebracho hardwood section off the ground-floor public areas, and the 57 chocolate-and-burgundy rooms encircling the soaring atrium are Scandinavian in simplicity. Diners can savor Patagonian king crab, venison, or lamb as they gaze over the glacial waters and the gully-scythed mountains beyond.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
Hostería El Puma
212 Lionel Terray
El Chaltén
Argentina
Tel: 54 2962 493095
info@hosteriaelpuma.com.ar
www.hosteriaelpuma.com.ar

The village of El Chaltén is one of Argentina's hiking capitals, located at the northern end of Los Glaciares National Park and at the base of Patagonia's emblematic Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre peaks, with hiking trails winding in all directions. Owned by Alberto del Castillo, who also runs guiding outfit Fitz Roy Expediciones, 12-room Hostería El Puma is the perfect budget option for hikers who prefer to return to a bit of comfort at nighttime. It's cozy, rustic, and warmed by a crackling fireplace that serves as a meeting place for elated but footsore hikers after a muddy day in the mountains. The emphasis is on comfort rather than design: The brick-walled rooms are heated from beneath the wooden floorboards, and thick duvet bedcovers and powerful showers help keep guests cozy. The views from El Puma stretch across the Río de las Vueltas valley to the house built by El Chaltén's first European settler, Danish pioneer and cartographer Andreas Madsen. Unlike most Argentine lodges, El Puma goes beyond just a coffee and medialuna croissant for breakfast, serving a filling mix of granolas, breads, and cakes to prepare hikers for the day ahead. Local favorites such as fresh Patagonian lamb and trout await guests when they return for dinner.

Closed May through September.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Hostería Los Notros
Ruta Provincial 11
Los Glaciares National Park
Argentina
Tel: 54 2902 499510
info@experiencepatagonia.com
www.losnotros.com

El Calafate is a dusty Patagonian steppe town on Lake Argentina, close to the three-mile-wide Perito Moreno glacier, one of 13 that flow into Argentina's two-million-acre Los Glaciares National Park. Each morning, hundreds of tourists drive out to gawk and gasp as huge columns of ice calve and collapse into turquoise meltwaters. But when the day-trippers start on the 50-mile return trip, guests at Los Notros—the only hotel in the national park area that faces the glacier—simply sit back and watch as the setting sun purples the ice. The hotel's cypress and pine exterior blends well with the surrounding Valdivian forest; inside are 32 Jacuzzi-equipped, discreetly decorated rooms and an award-winning restaurant specializing in hearty servings of Patagonian game. The outstanding view and guided excursions—including horseback riding across the steppe, sailing among icebergs, or donning crampons to clamber onto Perito Moreno's crevasse-scythed surface—partly justify the hotel's hefty price tag, but it's still a lot to pay for indifferently decorated rooms and inexperienced staff.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Las Balsas
Bahía Las Balsas
Villa La Angostura
Argentina
Tel: 54 2944 494308
info@lasbalsas.com.ar
www.lasbalsas.com.ar

Situated on the fir-lined banks of Lake Nahuel Huapi's north shore, Villa La Angostura is unashamedly twee, its main street lined with wooden boardwalks and chinked-log chalets. Visitors come to cast for trout in the streams and lakes accessed from the picturesque Ruta de los Siete Lagos (Seven Lakes Drive), practice their downhill at the 21-piste Cerro Bayo ski resort, five miles away; or hike directly from town across a narrow isthmus to Los Arrayanes National Park. Luxury lodge Las Balsas nestles among beech trees and is aimed at those who prefer to top-and-tail their outdoors pursuits with a bit of pampering. All 15 rooms and suites overlook a private jetty and boathouse on one of the lake's prettiest bays. After enjoying the great outdoors by day, guests return each night to sip a well-chosen malbec in a candlelit nook; sample the Patagonian trout, venison, and lamb paired with wild mushrooms, scallops, and forest fruits by chef Pablo Campoy; or soothe aching muscles in the well-equipped, stone-built spa next door.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Las Hayas Resort Hotel
1650 Avenida Luis Fernando Martial
Ushuaia
Argentina
Tel: 54 2901 430710
lashayashotelushuaia@fibertel.com.ar
www.lashayashotel.com

Set on beech-carpeted slopes two miles above Ushuaia, Las Hayas affords sweeping views of the city, the Beagle Channel, and the mysterious peaks of Chile's Isla Navarino beyond. The building's layout is designed to squeeze maximum mileage from the imposing location: A comfortable lounge stretches the length of the building; the bar, fireside den, and formal restaurant (specializing in local delicacies such as black hake and king crab) all share the same view. Within, wallpaper and upholstery can be startlingly florid, but the 93 rooms are light-filled and spacious, service is impeccable, and the well-equipped health club boasts one of Ushuaia's few decent swimming pools as well as a sauna, hot tubs, and squash court.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Llao Llao Hotel & Resort
Av. Ezequiel Bustillo km, 25
San Carlos de Bariloche
Argentina
Tel: 54 2944 448530
www.llaollao.com

Anticipate "a lush landscape"—Nahuel Huapi National Park—and "fabulous, joy-inducing vistas" of mountain and lakes. Constructed with cypress, hemlock, and green stone, the "well-kept property exudes an exclusive hunting lodge feel," with patterned carpets and woven fabrics among Argentine country furniture. Suites in dark wood tones have canopied poster beds. An à la carte lunch is offered at Patagonia, where "the food is delicious."

(206 rooms)

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Loi Suites Chapelco Hotel
National Route 234 KM 57.5
San Martín de los Andes , Patagonia
Argentina 8370
Tel: 54 11 525266
www.loisuites.com.ar

Overlooking a forest of Oregon pine, a Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course, and the north face of Mount Chapelco, this gable-roofed property may be set amid the untamed Patagonian wilderness, but there's nothing untamed about the hotel. Situated in a 560-acre gated community, it attracts those more interested in smart decor and safety than full immersion in Patagonian culture. The terra cotta-and stone interior with burnished and buffed wooden furnishings maximizes the hotel's biggest asset: its bucolic view. All 85 tastefully outfitted rooms, with a cavernous sitting room warmed by a crackling fire, face the mountain, as do the two restaurants, where local trout, venison, and wild boar are expertly prepared. There are tubs and scrubs aplenty in the slick spa, game rooms for kids, and, while golfing guests rarely need leave the property, capable staff can organize rafting and fly fishing excursions on the nearby Río Quilquihue. The more-venturesome can gallop through Lanín National Park, ascend 12,500-foot Volcán Lanín's icy cone, or, in winter, ski Chapelco resort, and return for a sundowner on the hotel's mountain-facing terrace.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Los Sauces Casa Patagónica
1352-1370 Los Gauchos
El Calafate
Argentina 9405
Tel: 54 11 4348 5189
www.casalossauces.com/lossauces

A single night at Casa Los Sauces costs three times the average monthly wage of an Argentine worker—ironic, considering the hotel is owned by the country's left-leaning president, Cristina Kirchner, whose private retreat sits mere yards from the hotel's eight-acre lawn, itself bravely coaxed from the Patagonian steppe. Providing high levels of comfort in such hostile terrain is expensive, of course: The three iron-roofed houses, modeled on traditional Patagonian sheep farms, are updated with underfloor heating, power showers, and impeccable insulation. Guests are met at the airport by a personal assistant and a driver and whisked straight to their room, where yet more assistants await, clutching champagne. The 18 ample accommodations are decorated with flowery throws and antique furniture, and open onto a private sitting room with a vast fireplace. Rise at dawn for a clamber on the Perito Moreno glacier, 50 miles to the west, or summit one of the nearby peaks accompanied by in-house guides toting a gourmet picnic. Blissful, light-filled evenings are spent gazing at scudding clouds while relaxing in the well-equipped spa or wavering between the king crab and the lobster in the exemplary restaurant.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Luma-Casa de Montaña
2369 Avenida Siete Lagos
Villa La Angostura , Neuquén
Argentina 8407
Tel: 54 29 4449 5641
consultas@lumapatagonia.com.ar
lumapatagonia.com.ar

Perched on a steeply sloped lakeside lot a mile from Villa La Angostura's chinked-log cabins and gourmet food stores, the eight-room Luma overlooks some of the most compelling scenery in Nahuel Huapi National Park: lake waters of deepest azure, untouched forests of southern beech, and serried, snowcapped peaks. Within the handsome sandstone building are pleasantly sparse furnishings, iron radiators, pastel-shaded walls of distressed plaster, beams of rough-hewn cypress, and old-fashioned bathrooms with claw-foot tubs. The chatty, well-traveled staff give the place a lived-in feel. After preparing a generous breakfast of cherries, tartlets, and homemade scones, they send guests out to cast for trout, saddle up for a foray, or simply gaze at the Andean condors soaring overhead. Evenings are spent by the stone fireplace in the open sitting room or in the cozy, candlelit restaurant, where guests take afternoon tea or dine on locally caught shrimp or fish.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Valle Perdido Estate Winery
Ruta Provincial 7 - Picada 6
San Patricio del Chañar , Neuquén
Argentina Q8305
Tel: 800 525 4800 (toll-free)
Tel: 54 11 4343 3350
valleperdido.com.ar

In a large oasis in the underexplored Patagonian plateau, former peach orchards are being transformed into vineyards. This 18-room hotel has been ingeniously draped around a working winery, its exterior of sandstone and textured concrete blending with the arid, stony soil. Sumptuous rooms, furnished in darkly austere wood and alligator leather, open onto rows of imaginatively lit oak barrels in the cellar. Viticulture is of course the theme here: Estate-bottled wines accompany wild boar and venison in the superlative restaurant, vinotherapy scrubs headline the spa treatments, and personable staff conduct impromptu bodega tours or happily direct guests to neighboring wineries. Regulars can even make their own blend, storing their creations until the next visit.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.