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Lee How Fook, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

219 N. 11th Street
Philadelphia , Pennsylvania
Tel: 215 925 7266's insider take:

The boisterous families and groups of friends that gather at this Cantonese institution (in the heart of Philly's small, yet rewarding, Chinatown) hardly noticed when a 2003 renovation elevated the decor from grubby to no-frills. They were too busy crunching on salt-baked squid coated in gossamer breading as cracking and delicate as spun sugar and stuffing crisp-skinned Peking duck into fluffy, hoisin-slathered steamed buns. (When ordering, keep in mind that most dishes come portioned to feed the whole table.) The service is as utilitarian as the decor unless you order the whole sea bass in black-bean sauce; the fish is deftly filleted tableside with a welcome touch of ceremony.

Open Tuesdays through Sundays 11:30 am to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.