The main antiquing area in Phoenix is in the quadrant between Seventh Street and Seventh Avenue, and McDowell and Camelback. Stuff Antiques has uncommon items such as the perfect vintage doorknob or antique bed frame (4206 N. Central Ave.; 602-266-1967). Down the street, one of the smallest but greatest stores, Modern Lighting, is packed to the hilt (chairs are hung from the ceiling) with everything from cameras to silverware and, yes, lights (5016 N. Central Ave.; 602-248-4908). The owner, Petey, makes the place feel more like a barbershop with his penchant for gossip and storytelling. Like Palm Springs, Phoenix is becoming known for midcentury modern furniture. The pick of the half-dozen shops is Red Modern Furniture, with museum-quality pieces in an amazing 1956 building (201 E. Camelback Rd.; 602-256-9620; www.redmodernfurniture.com). Chat about the latest Sotheby's auction with owner Jonathan Wayne and then browse his girlfriend's corner of the store, Mint Vintage Clothing. If you're looking for quantity, go to Scottsdale's Antique Trove, one of the biggest antique emporiums in the Valley (2020 N. Scottsdale Rd.; 480-947-6074; www.antiquetrove.com).

The best way for art collectors to compare galleries in Scottsdale is to attend the weekly Art Walk on Thursdays from 7 to 9 pm. It takes place in downtown Scottsdale along Main Street and Marshall Way (480-990-3939; www.scottsdalegalleries.com). Of course, there's free wine from the 50 or so participating galleries to help lubricate checkbooks. Although contemporary art has a smaller niche in these parts, Bentley Gallery attracts collectors of all tastes (4161 N. Marshall Way; 480-946-6060; www.bentleygallery.com). If you're looking for affordable art, check out Art One, which represents university students and emerging artists (4120 N. Marshall Way; 480-946-5076; www.artonegalleryinc.com). But if you've come to Scottsdale seeking the tradition of the American West, Legacy Gallery on Main Street has a long history of representing past and present western painters and sculptors (7178 Main St., 800-916-3003 or 480-945-1113; www.legacygallery.com). Overland Gallery of Fine Art reps local artist Ed Mell, who the international art community adores for his sharp, angular depictions of Southwestern imagery (7155 Main St.; 800-920-0220 or 480-947-1934; www.overlandgallery.com). A bit odd, but the gallery also has a very large Russian and Soviet Impressionism collection.

For Southwestern/western-style fashions, Saba's, in the heart of Old Town, is a boot and belt institution.

Open Mondays through Fridays 10 am to 7 pm, Saturdays 10 am to 6 pm, Sundays 12 to 5 pm.

Although Phoenix/Scottsdale is as well known for its strip malls as its cacti and palm trees, a few of the higher-end shopping centers are actually worth stopping by. Biltmore Fashion Park isn't the largest, but it's the most charming, with midcentury, low-profile buildings set in a stroll-beckoning layout (2502 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix; 602-955-8400; www.shopbiltmore.com). Serious shoppers should budget half a day for the massive Scottsdale Fashion Square, with anchors like Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom (7014 E. Camelback Rd., Scottsdale; 480-949-0202; www.fashionsquare.com). There are some 2255 stores here (most of them familiar names), but we love the mix of accessible (Lacoste, Gap) with designer (Louis Vuitton, Gucci).