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Grüner, Portland

527 S.W. 12th Avenue
Portland , Oregon
Tel: 503 241 7163's insider take:

The Pacific Northwest's produce and climate are an ideal match for the hearty, earthy fare of Germany and its surrounding regions. At least Christopher Israel, a star chef credited with helping to put Portland's food scene on the national map, thinks so. In Grüner's spare, wood-clad dining room on the first floor of downtown's slick Skylab Architecture building, Israel takes guests on a sophisticated culinary tour through German, Austrian, Hungarian, Romanian, and related fare. In true Portland fashion, produce goes from farm to table daily, in dishes such as short rib goulash and buckwheat spaetzle with rabbit, as well as house-made pretzels, rye bread, kraut, sausage, and pickles. The equally tempting bar menu includes one of the city's best burgers: a dripping indulgence of Cascadia meat with currywurst ketchup, house-made bacon, pickled onions, and cucumbers on a poppy seed bun that pairs perfectly with the German and Oregon beers on tap.—Colleen Clark

Open Mondays through Thursdays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 4:30 to 9:30 pm, Fridays 11:30 am to 2 pm and 4:30 to 10:30 pm, and Saturdays 5 to 10:30 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.