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Portugal Hotels

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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6Only
97 Rua Duque de Loulé
Porto
Portugal 4000 325
Tel: 351 22 201 3971
6only@6only.pt
www.6only.pt

This century-old, converted city-center town house has six stylish double rooms and a light-flooded common space that opens onto a small garden patio. The high-ceilinged rooms feature a seamless blend of classic and contemporary design elements: original moldings alongside mostly white decor, with a different colorful accent picked up in the chairs, bedcovers, and cushions in each room. All accommodations come with a bathtub and a small balcony (our favorite is room 1, which has a gorgeous original ceiling with flower-shaped moldings). What takes this place to another level, however, is the hands-on, friendly young couple who own it. Pedro Meneses and Mariana Soares will offer you a welcome glass of port, a map of the city, and a wealth of insider tips, including personalized restaurant recommendations. Free Wi-Fi is available throughout the property, and a delicious breakfast (homemade cakes and sweets like tomato, pumpkin, and strawberry jams made by Meneses' mother) is included. Note that this hidden gem displays no visible sign outside, so look for the blue door and the street number.—Anja Mutić

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Altis Avenida
120 Rua 1° Dezembro
Lisbon
Portugal 1200 360
Tel: 351 21 044 0000
info@altishotels.com
www.altishotels.com

Altis Avenida is a luxury property with a dose of retro glamour on Rossio Square in the heart of Lisbon. The 1940s modernist landmark reopened in March 2010 after an 18-month, top-to-bottom refurbishment by the family-owned Altis hotel group (this is the sixth addition to the group's Lisbon properties, which include Hotel Altis Belém). From the Art Deco facade to the lobby's dazzling restored staircase and black Dalí-esque chairs, you can see from the get-go that this property is all about bold statements. The 68 guest rooms, spread over six floors, have LCD TVs and complimentary Wi-Fi; the decor gives a nod to the 1940s with lots of wood, black lacquer, brass, and velvet, plus marble and gold bathrooms (stocked with L'Occitane products). Shell out for one of the two suites or a deluxe room; these all have higher ceilings and terraces overlooking tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade and the surrounding hills. If you don't want to spend extra for a good view, you can take in the marvelous panorama from the seventh-floor Rossio Restaurant. It has an outdoor terrace and a lovingly restored tile panel depicting the view of Lisbon during the reign of Portugal's first king, Afonso Henriques, in the 12th century.—Anja Mutić

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
As Janelas Verdes
47 Rua Das Janelas Verdes
Lisbon
Portugal 1200-690
Tel: 351 21 321 8200
janelas.verdes@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt/en/janelasverdes.htm

This 18th-century mini-palace was once home to famous local novelist Eça de Queirós, and you can easily imagine courting the muse as you wander through the public rooms here. Recline on velvet sofas in the wood-paneled library with its glass-doored bookcases, peer through a brass telescope framed by swagged heavy brocade drapery, or even pick out a mazurka on the piano. The 29 bedrooms, lit by sconces, have French bedspreads, mahogany headboards, and marble bathrooms. There's also a cute courtyard where breakfast is served. There's no restaurant, but here in the old town by the Museu de Arte Antiga and the Docas there are plenty of places to choose from.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
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Bairro Alto Hotel
Praca Luis de Camões
Lisbon
Portugal 1200-243
Tel: 351 21 340 8288
info@bairroaltohotel.com
www.bairroaltohotel.com

The debut of the Bairro Alto in 2005, Lisbon's first true boutique hotel, was a telling sign that the city had become a style center in its own right. Fittingly overlooking Camões Square at the precise point where the bohemian Bairro Alto neighborhood meets the trendy Chiado shopping district, the converted 18th-century mansion doesn't entirely abandon tradition; the facade is a classic bright-yellow, while the terrazzo floor in the lobby is inlaid with a marble globe referencing Portugal's epic age of exploration. But the real local buzz focuses on the hotel's embrace of the modern. The street-level Portuguese-contemporary restaurant and the airy bar overlooking the square have become clubhouse central for Lisbon's scene-makers. The sleek sensibility continues upstairs, in the 55 bedrooms that shrink in size on top floors but never feel too cramped, thanks to their brightly colored paneled walls, tailored leather headboards, and slim walnut desks that convert into dressing tables by way of flip-up mirrors. The most unexpected, whimsical touch is the naturalist cameo of songbirds painted on each guest room wall. But the Bairro Alto's best feature is an open-air rooftop café where you can curl up on wicker sofas, eat a smoked salmon sandwich, and gaze out over Lisbon's red-tiled roofs to the Tagus River.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Casa Velha do Palheiro
Rua da Estalagem 23
Funchal , Madeira
Portugal
Tel: 351 291 790 350
info@casa-velha.com
www.casa-velha.com

If you simply must have five-star luxury and you just gotta be on the links, this Relais & Chateau country house just north of Funchal is the place to stay. Its 37 accommodation options—done in a modern take on country-style elegance, with comfy furnishings and floral-print drapes to match the bed skirts—are spread across the three buildings of a hunting lodge that dates to 1800. What's more, the property sits amidst an 18-hole, par-72 golf course that's not only immersed in parkland and a laurel forest, but also on the UNESCO list of protected areas. Non-duffers can content themselves with the pool, sauna, tennis courts, and other activities.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
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Choupana Hills Resort & Spa
Travessa do Largo da Choupana
Funchal , Madeira
Portugal
Tel: 351 291 206 020
info@choupanahills.com
www.choupanahills.com

Surrounded by eucalyptus and mimosa, Choupana Hills is a distinctly Asian-looking tiered triangle of 34 wood-and-stone bungalows set in 20 acres of landscaped hillside above the Atlantic Ocean, about 2.5 miles north of Funchal. Designed by the architects who designed Malaysia's Datai Hotel, Choupana Hills was constructed along Zen lines of symmetry and simplicity, with details such as Buddhist statues. There are two heated pools, one inside and one out, a restaurant, lounge, library, and spa, together with 60 double rooms and four suites.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
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Convento do Espinheiro
Évora
Portugal
Tel: 351 266 788200
www.conventodoespinheiro.com

The walled city of Évora, a World Heritage Site in the Alentejo region, is a great destination for its whitewashed Baroque churches; gentle ambience; and now, on the outskirts of town, the Convento do Espinheiro, a lovely resort in a monastery dating from 1458. It has huge outdoor and indoor pools, a tennis court, and a full spa, so guests can mix a cultural discovery with a sun-and-spa getaway. The 59 rooms are divided between those created from the monks' cells and smaller new rooms. The former have more charm and easier access to the azu.lejo-bedecked chapel—a real jaw-dropper. Staff make up for any slip-ups in their newly minted English with a meticulous attention to detail. 

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
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Four Seasons Hotel Ritz
88 Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca
Lisbon
Portugal 1099-039
Tel: 800 332 3442 (toll-free)
Tel: 351 21 381 1400
www.fourseasons.com/lisbon/index.html

Lisbon's Four Seasons may come as a surprise to the chain's fans. The ten-story, 1959 marble cube of a building, crowning one of Lisbon's seven hills, looks like a version of Eastern Bloc architecture at its most block-headed, and the swish 1950s interior doesn't conform to any accepted rendition of contempo chic. But anyone who appreciates genuinely quirky retro will lap up the Jean Cocteau meets Jackie O. glamour, starting with 282 epic-sized guestrooms that flaunt a dizzying mix of luxe references (everything from Louis XVI to a dash of Deco, swagged curtains to heated towel racks). The hotel really comes into its own, though, in the sweeping public lounges that double as galleries of Portuguese Modernist art; among the most eye-popping pieces are the neon-colored, Picasso-like tapestries of centauros by José de Almada Negreiros. Less of an acquired taste, especially in a city where service can seriously flag, is the impeccably efficient staff and an intrepid concierge desk that will do anything legal to snag that dinner reservation. Other big pluses: a new, state-of-the-art multi-sensory spa (try the nectar and papaya wrap for a fruity, organic glow) and the Varanda Restaurant's snaking lunch buffet, where you can sample every classic egg-based Portuguese convent dessert while watching the local power brokers make deals.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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Grande Hotel do Porto
197 Rua Santa Catarina
Porto
Portugal 4000 450
Tel: 351 22 207 6690
reservas@grandehotelporto.com
www.grandehotelporto.com

The five-story Grande Hotel do Porto sits on store-lined Rua Santa Catarina in the city's central shopping district. Operating as a hotel since 1880, this 94-room property isn't short on character, with a fancy Victorian facade, elaborate chandeliers, high ceilings, and marble columns. An ongoing face-lift (to be fully completed by spring 2011) is preserving the hotel's historic features while modernizing its amenities one floor at a time. You can choose from three room types: Classics, on the first-floor, have faux period touches and marble bathrooms; standard rooms, on the other floors, have a more contemporary look, with minimal chocolate-and-white decor. The two suites, on the first floor, showcase original period furniture. A light-filled restaurant serves a combination of Portuguese and international dishes, and an overhauled salon-style bar is a great spot for afternoon tea after a shopping spree.—Anja Mutić

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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Guest House Douro
99–101 Rua Fonte Taurina
Porto
Portugal 4050 270
Tel: 351 22 201 5135
guesthousedouro@sapo.pt
www.guesthousedouro.com

Tucked away behind the Ribeira riverfront in one of Porto's oldest streets, this eight-room charmer in a renovated historic town house has a homey vibe, thanks to its owners, the gregarious live-in couple Carmen Rodriguez and João Fonseca. The uniformly cozy rooms are a low-cost alternative to staying at the four-star Pestana further east along the shore. Ask for one of the four guest rooms with direct views of the Douro and the port wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite bank (room 202 is a favorite—admittedly small, but with a river-facing balcony). If you value space more than a view, the four street-side rooms are a better bet, and are equipped with bathtubs, to boot. Room decor is consistent throughout—plain white walls, dressed up with ornate mirrors and fancy headboards—and all have free Wi-Fi. The tiny breakfast area accommodates three seatings per morning, serving tasty breads and goodies (choose your time slot the night before). This being Porto, you're served a glass of port on arrival, but if it gives you a taste for a night on the town, be sure to be back before 1 am, when the guest house closes its doors for the night.—Anja Mutić

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
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Heritage Av Liberdade Hotel
28 Avenida da Liberdade
Lisbon
Portugal 1250-145
Tel: 351 21 340 4040
avliberdade@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt/heritage_av_liberdade.html

Though he's the man behind the louche looks of Paris's Buddha Bar and London's Strictly Hush, Portuguese architect Miguel Câncio Martins has copped a luxuriously Lusitanian appearance for this 42-room hotel, which overlooks the sculpture-dotted Avenida Liberdade. Even the elevator has a stone mosaic floor reprising the sidewalks out front. Rooms, which are larger and quieter than those at the Bairro Alto Hotel ("Hot List," May 2006), have rich-looking eucalyptus parquet floors and wainscoting of azuelos, Portugal's traditional painted tiles. Limed wood paneling, ostrich skin headboards, and cut velvet and chintzes put a spin of contemporary chic on local tradition. There's also a charming mezzanine library with books in several languages, and breakfast is served in the armchair-filled lobby lounge, which includes antique mahogany cabinets used by the herbalists who occupied the building during the eighteenth century.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Altis Belém
Doca do Bom Sucesso
Lisbon
Portugal 1400-038
Tel: 351 210 400 200
info@altisbelemhotel.com
www.altisbelemhotel.com

Few Lisbon hotels can match the Altis Belém's sublime waterfront location, wedged between the dramatic Monument to the Discoveries and a fairy-tale limestone folly called the Torre de Belém. Groovily modern, with its 50 rooms facing either the marina or the Golden Gate-style red girder bridge which spans the mouth of the Tagus River, the hotel's glass-fronted "less is more" design makes maximum advantage of its setting. Cool marble interiors are furnished by designers Margarida Grácio Nunes and Fernando Sanchez Salvador, who did not skimp on the five lavishly upholstered suites with rich colorful murals depicting colonial Portuguese outposts, a theme that runs throughout the hotel. Guest rooms named Mauritania, Goa, Macau, and Maldivas nod to past glories but it is the spices flowing from kitchen at the hotel's Feitoria restaurant that provide guests with the hotel's highlight. Michelin star chef José Cordeiro concocts seafood dishes with a hint of colonial flavor—like the amuse bouche with six variations of oyster. The trendy, ground floor 38º 41' Bar also serves a rooftop sun deck and infinity pool area overlooking the Tagus. BSpa's scarlet pajama-clad therapists contrast with milky white marble walls that form a hammam, treatment rooms, and a superb azure-blue heated pool.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Areias do Seixo
Praceta do Atlantico
Povoa de Penafirme
A-dos-Cunhados
Portugal 2560-046
Tel: 351 261 936 340
info@areiasdoseixo.com
areiasdoseixo.com/home/EN

Areias do Seixo, a 35-minute drive from Lisbon, can make you believe that if only you could stay a little longer, gazing out at the rippling dunes or sunk in the stone tub while pinecones smolder in the nearby fireplace, you would never again feel ennui. Every part of this lovely space—from the soothing spa, to the airy dining room with its open kitchen, to the seven individually designed guest rooms—induces a profound sense of well-being. It doesn't hurt that guest rooms open onto a broad swath of windswept gardens and, beyond, the blue Atlantic. The interiors are just as pleasing, composed of glass, stone, and rough-hewn wood, with olive trees or lavender never far from reach. The result is a design-conscious place that would blur the lines between indoors and out if it weren't for the almost folkloric details and eco-sensitivity that reflect the taste of owners Gonçalo Alves and Marta Fonseca: handmade candlesticks on the restaurant tables, silk embroidered pillows in rooms. An on-site organic garden supplies the restaurant with vegetables and herbs, hidden solar panels provide electricity, and much of the furniture is made from repurposed timber. Every evening, the couple welcome guests with wine and a bonfire just a few feet from the crashing waves. It's just one of the surprising touches—returning to your room at night to find it illuminated by candles is another—that make Areias do Seixo so remarkable.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
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Hotel da Estrela
35 Rua Saraiva de Carvalho
Lisbon
Portugal 1250 242
Tel: 351 21 190 0100
info@hoteldaestrela.com
www.hoteldaestrela.com

School became cool when Hotel Da Estrela opened in October 2010 in the historic Palácio dos Condes de Paraty, which housed a school in the 1950s. Located in the residential Campo de Ourique neighborhood, the hotel is a short hop on the no. 28 tram or a few euros' cab ride from Bairro Alto. The hotel recruits its staff from among the final-year students at the neighboring School of Hospitality and Tourism. Portuguese interior designer Miguel Câncio Martins (Buddha Bar Paris) continues the education theme with a hall-like reception area sporting antique desks and large chalk-scribbled blackboards. The 19 guest rooms (including six suites) have blackboard floors and a green, white, and black color scheme; vintage maps on the walls; black-and-white mosaic tiles in the bathrooms; and do-not-disturb signs that read "Studying Hard/Out Playing (You May Clean the Room)." We recommend suite 18 on the first floor, which is bathed in sunlight from the floor-to-ceiling windows and has a lovely view of the hotel's small garden. The ground-floor restaurant, Cantina da Estrela, has school tables yet the creative Portuguese menu selections, such as balsamic risotto with mushrooms and foie gras, are a far cry from cafeteria meals. The Cantina also offers a unique "make your own price" concept—you choose the price according to your satisfaction with the dish.—Anja Mutić

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Inspira Santa Marta
48 Rua de Santa Marta
Lisbon
Portugal 1150-297
Tel: 351 210440900
reservas.ismh@inspirahotels.com
www.inspirasantamartahotel.com/PT/Homepage

From the outside, this 89-room hotel, located just off the capital's central Avenida Libertade, is all Portuguese gentility, with a classical facade punctuated with wrought iron balconies. But inside, it feels much more like a funky loft in San Francisco. From the long lobby lined with pretty wooden-slatted windows that let the Lisbon light stream in to the feng shui guest rooms made edgy with concrete floors and glass-walled showers etched with mod shapes, the interior is all West Coast hip. Service is professional yet warm, and the sustainability policy is flaunted to mostly good effect—witness the recyclable bottles of filtered water (although one would perhaps prefer a newspaper at breakfast to a sanctimonious lecture on the preferability of the computers available in the lobby). Which is not to say that the Santa Marta skimps on amenities. Rather, it has honed its list to the most appreciated ones: Rooms have Nespresso machines, for instance, as well as complimentary (if minimally stocked) minibars, and there's free Wi-Fi, an on-site spa and workout room, and a restaurant serving well-prepared Mediterranean cuisine—food that you might actually seek out rather than simply fall back on.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Inspira Santa Marta
48 Rua de Santa Marta
Lisbon
Portugal 1150 297
Tel: 351 21 044 0900
geral.ismh@inspirahotels.com
www.inspirasantamartahotel.com

If you like your hotels eco-friendly, guilt-free, and good-looking, Hotel Inspira Santa Marta has you covered. Opened in September 2010 inside a renovated palace a couple of blocks from the buzzing Avenida da Liberdade, the hotel has an Escher-esque long wooden staircase in the lobby. Inspira Santa Marta buys renewable energy, recycles its waste, and uses only LED lighting. For every room booked, one euro is donated to charity. The profits from the water the hotel sells (in recycled glass, no less) goes to Pump Aid. The 89 guest rooms are designed around the feng shui themes of water, wood, fire, earth, and metal: The wood rooms have cork floors and green bedcovers; the fire rooms are decked out in purple, red, violet, and bold patterns. All come with a fair-trade tea and coffee station, Wi-Fi, and biodegradable bath products. The Retreat spa has six treatment rooms, and there is a fitness area with steam bath, hot tub, and sauna. At Open, the hotel's Mediterranean brasserie, you can watch chefs prepare your food in an open kitchen. Urban, a retro-themed bar, hosts art exhibits and live DJs.—Anja Mutić

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Martinhal
Quinta do Martinhal
Apartado 54
Sagres , Algarve
Portugal 8650-908
Tel: 351 282 240 200
info@martinhal.com
martinhal.com

Just outside the fishing port of Sagres, overlooking a rare golden sand beach that punctuates the rutilant cliffs of the Algarve region's western coast, Martinhal, which includes a 38-room hotel and rental villas, counters the mega-resorts that dominate this region. It's not easy to coin a look that's eye candy and cozy at the same time, but London-based designer Michael Sodeau pulls it off beautifully. Lively beach shack-style rooms have teak floors and are furnished with Italian Gervasoni rattan floor lamps, rounded modular oak pieces by London's Modus, and loads of kick-off-your-Louboutins details, like the knitted wool throw pillows on the green tub chairs and the French doors that open onto private balconies with sweeping ocean views. The resort has fabulous facilities, too, including an indoor-outdoor swimming pool overlooking the beach and three excellent restaurants (seafood, epicurean, and casual bistro with great wood-oven pizzas), in addition to well-trained staff.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Mercure Porto Batalha
116 Porto Praça da Batalha
Baixa
Porto
Portugal 4049-028
Tel: 351 222 043 300
H1975@accor.com
www.mercure.com

This four-star, six-floor tower across from the National Theater and near the shopping district of Rua da Santa Catarina has two winning features. First, although thoroughly modern, the interior is charmingly comfortable, with French windows, rounded wood furnishings, mirrored vanities, and coffee- and burnt orange–colored fabrics that soften and lighten the 149 smallish rooms. Second, prices (under $165 in high season) are phenomenal for four-star service and in-room amenities such as Wi-Fi and dual-voltage outlets.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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Hotel Teatro
84 Rua Sá Bandeira
Porto
Portugal 4000 427
Tel: 351 22 040 9620
geral@hotelteatro.pt
www.hotelteatro.pt

Porto's first design hotel brings some drama to the city-center lodging scene. Standing on the spot of the 1859 Teatro Baquet, a renowned theater destroyed by fire in the late 19th century, the six-story Hotel Teatro, which opened in May 2010, has been given the dramatic treatment by interior designer Nini Andrade Silva. Hefty front doors with an inscription of an Almeida Garrett poem lead to a dark, bohemian hideaway. At the reception, which is done up like a box office, you'll be handed a ticket (okay, it's a card key) to access your room. The theatrical theme extends to the 74 guest rooms in shades of bronze and gold, where you'll find weighty curtains and mirrors big enough to please the most demanding of divas. Amenities include the usual mod trimmings, such as LCD TVs and free Wi-Fi, and suites come with glass partitions and claw-foot tubs. The hotel's Palco Restaurant (meaning "stage") and Plateia Bar ("tribune") are arranged around an inner courtyard, and the sixth-floor gym has views so good you'll hardly notice you're working out. Be warned: Sexy, dark hallways sound good on paper, but in reality, that means bumping into walls until your eyes adjust.—Anja Mutić

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
International Design Hotel
3 Rua da Betesga
Lisbon
Portugal 1100 090
Tel: 351 21 324 0990
info@idesignhotel.com
www.internacionaldesignhotel.com/

The International Design Hotel is a fun property smack-bang in the center of the city on Rossio Square. This 55-room boutique in two refurbished late 19th-century buildings has four floors offering different—rather disjointed—themes on each level. On the Urban floor, techno and house music is pumped through the corridors, which are lined with vinyl records and images of Bairro Alto's street art. The smell of the city is (relief) Chanel No. 5. The Tribal level is all wooden floors, fur rugs, earthy tones, tribal art, and the heady scent of cinnamon. If you opt for the Zen floor, expect a soothing brown-and-white color scheme, minimalist decor, and the aroma of green tea. The Pop Art floor is the least easy on the eye (and the nose), with Barbie pink and white decor and a bubble gum smell. All guest rooms have free Wi-Fi and range in size from 12 to 22 square feet. Some overlook a glass-interior atrium with funky lamps; others face the square. The hotel's Rossio Wine Bar, frequented by a young, hip crowd, is a good spot to sit back and take in the bustle of Rossio Square.—Anja Mutić

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
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Lapa Palace
4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira
Lisbon
Portugal 1249-021
Tel: 800 237 1236 (toll-free)
Tel: 351 21 394 9494
reservations@lapa-palace.com
www.lapa-palace.com

The pink palace set high on a hill in its own gardens—the chosen lodgings of President Bush, Sting, and Cher—remains as extraordinary as ever thanks to good management (it's in the Orient-Express stable) and recent refurbishments. Of the 109 rooms, you really have to get one of the Palace Rooms for the full 18th-century experience. Those in the modern Garden Wing and the more period-appropriate Villa Lapa lack that je ne sais quoi. If your bonus came in big, secure the Tower Room, #701—it has not only a private terrace but also a walkway to a second one, an octagonal tower-top perch just big enough for breakfast. Amenities are all you'd expect, with an outdoor pool in the grounds and an indoor one in the La Prairie (and MAC makeup) spa, with sauna, steam, and gym. Kids are well catered for too, with babysitting service and a playground. Last but not least, this hotel has its own fragrance, the 140-year-old mandarin-violet-cedar Agua de Portugal, legacy of King Louis I's bride, Princess Maria Pia of Savoy.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
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LX Boutique Hotel
12 Rua do Alecrim
Lisbon
Portugal 1200 017
Tel: 351 21 347 4394
info@lxboutiquehotel.com
www.lxboutiquehotel.pt

LX brought a much-needed dash of color and fun to the unassuming Cais do Sodré area when it opened in September 2010. The once legendary Hotel Bragança, which for a time housed the famed Portuguese poet and writer Fernando Pessoa, emerged in its hip new incarnation after a $10 million refurb. Old suitcases decorate the 45-room property, and its five floors are named after Lisbon neighborhoods and landmarks. Room size ranges from the Xssential (smallest, with cabin-style bathrooms), to the Xpanded (more spacious) and Xplendid (a striking light-flooded suite, with panoramic river views, a skylight above the bed, and a small terrace). Views also are categorized: Choose from Backstreet, Citylights, and Riverside. Room 51 in the attic has the standout Riverside view, yet even a cheaper Backstreet room has its charms: The wall it overlooks has been cheered up with colorful street art commissioned by the hotel. It's fun touches like this—along with the lines of candles that lead you up to your room come nighttime, personal messages for each guest, and the unique Placebook at the reception (a guidebook made by guests)—that make LX a bit special. The hotel's Japanese restaurant next door, Confraria, has an open kitchen, free Wi-Fi, and breakfasts (at extra charge) in bright surroundings.—Anja Mutić

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
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M'Ar de Ar Aqueduto
72 Rua Candido dos Reis
Évora
Portugal 7000
Tel: 351 266 739 300
www.mardearhotels.com/aqueduto/eng/index_en.asp

Things are changing in the walled city of Évora as high style arrives to satisfy the new upscale visitors' needs. Ornate Manueline windows belie the plush modern design interior of the 64-room M'Ar de Ar Aqueduto, born of the restoration of a fifteenth-century mansion in the center of town that preserves a magnificent chapel (now a high-tech conference room), abóbada-crowned barrel-vaulted ceilings, and period gargoyles. Just past the lobby, a first class Philippe Starck-furnished restaurant featuring creative regional cuisine spills into the terrace bar, a well-stocked art book library, and a wooden outdoor pool deck. A small glassed-in fitness area lets guests work up a sweat before relaxing in a naturally lit relaxation chamber with reclining beds. After a sightseeing marathon through the steep cobblestone streets of Évora's historic center, unwind at the hotel's Turkish bath or one of two expertly manned cocktail bars.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
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The Oitavos
Rua de Oitavos
Quinta da Marinha
Cascais
Portugal 2750-374
Tel: 351 21 486 0020
info@theoitavos.com
www.theoitavos.com

Tucked away behind the sand dunes that separate a beautiful park from the Atlantic Ocean, the 142-room Oitavos looks set to reboot the Lisboan Riviera. You'll need to be a fan of contemporary design to be happy in this trident-shaped building a quarter mile inland, as its plate-glass walls are more Bauhaus than cozy. Still, the rooms are spacious and light, with sky-blue vinyl floors, white walls, and large balconies offering sea or golf course views. A wall-hung television faces a plump stone-gray canvas sofa in the standard double, and a perky modern oil painting and a navy-blue cotton throw on the large bed give the room some personality. A long white laminate desk separates the bedroom from the bathroom, where you'll find a blocky sky-blue tub and a stall shower. Surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds, The Oitavos also has an outdoor saltwater pool in season.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Palacete Chafariz d'el Rei
6 Tv. Chafariz D'el Rei
Alfama District
Lisbon
Portugal 1100-140
Tel: 351 918 973 376
booking@chafarizdelrei.com
chafarizdelrei.com

Returning to Lisbon at the turn of the twentieth century after having made his fortune in Brazil, João Antonio Santos shocked the locals by building an opulent Brazilian Art Nouveau mansion with elaborate stained-glass windows on the edge of the ancient Alfama quarter. It slowly fell from grace over the course of a century, finally becoming the offices of import/export companies, until a history-loving Spaniard and his Portuguese partner bought it and restored it with lavish amounts of both cash and tender loving care. They opened three beautiful, individually decorated suites as a micro hotel within the mansion last summer, and it instantly became a favorite insider's address with an aesthetically discerning group ranging from Spanish filmmakers to German fashion designers. You'll feel as though you've arrived at a private mansion, with incense in the air, the ministrations of a soft-spoken Brazilian butler and housekeeper, and the warm welcome of Rui Teixeira, the partner who runs the property. The magnificent ground-floor public rooms are decorated with elaborate moldings and antiques, as are the suites, all of which have mesmerizing views of the Tagus River. The only drawback to this unique hotel is that it's so delightful you'll have to force yourself out the door to see the city.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Palacio Belmonte
14 Páteo Dom Fradique
Lisbon
Portugal 1100-624
Tel: 351 21 881 6600
office@palaciobelmonte.com
www.palaciobelmonte.com

The ten painstakingly renovated suites of this ancient palace (part of it dates back to 100 B.C.) by the Castelo de São Jorge in the Alfama will feed your dreams for years. A French financier, Frédéric Coustols, conceived and carried out the $24-million conversion of this palácio, built in 1449, enlarged in 1640, and incorporating Roman fortifications in its north tower and a seventh-century Moorish tower in the west. The largest suite, named Gil Vicente after the 16th-century Portuguese writer, has its own winter garden, three terraces, and a huge white Estremoz marble bathroom. The most extraordinary suite, named after Jesuit explorer Padre Himalaya, has a bedroom aerie with vaulted, beamed ceiling and windows on all sides perched on top of the Roman tower and accessed by a spiral stone stairway. There's also a multilingual 4,000-volume library, a chapel, a black marble swimming pool, and a café (open till 8 p.m., also to the public). What you will emphatically not find are hotel amenities such as a concierge, 24-hour room service, and pay movies. The AC, for example, is via stone ventilation conduits—i.e., the breeze method. There are, however, three phone lines per suite and, it's sweet to note, far from being a plaything of the rich, this is a socially conscious community with rent-controlled tenants in four adjoining buildings and ecologically correct everything.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Pestana Porto
1 Praça da Ribeira
Ribeira
Porto
Portugal 4050-513
Tel: 351 223 402 300
reservas.porto@pestana.com
www.pestana.com

Good hotels in the old part of town are scarce, so if you want to stay down by the river, this is the place. In fact, the Pestana may be the nicest hotel in Porto. Most rooms have panoramic water views (request when you book, just in case) and balconies where you can spend hours gazing upon the harbor and the sights of the downtown Ribeira neighborhood. The hotel is a sensitive fusion of 11 separate riverside town houses spanning the 16th to 18th centuries, plus a sizable slab of medieval city wall. The place is well run, comfortable, and stylish without, thankfully, appearing too "designer."

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Pousada do Porto, Palácio do Freixo
108 Estrada Nacional
Campanhã
Porto
Portugal 4300
Tel: 351 225 311 000
pousada.porto@pousadas.pt
www.pousadas.pt/historicalhotels/EN/pousadas/Portugal/Norte/PalaciodoFreixo/home/PalaciodoFreixoHOME.htm

Just on the outskirts of Porto overlooking a broad bend in the Douro river, one of the country's newest pousadas is an 87-room gem improbably created from a magnificent 1742 baroque palace by Italian architect Niccolò Nasoni and an adjoining eighteenth-century brick flour mill. If the public rooms of the palace feature elaborate moldings, high ceilings, lavish parquet floors, and antiques, rooms in the former mill are sleek, spacious, and contemporary, with almond walls, ginger-colored wall-to-wall carpeting, and chrome-framed modern furniture. The only reference to the hotel building's industrial past are granite casement windows and the tall dramatic brick factory chimney adjacent to the outdoor pool, which is built on the edge of the river. Overall, the edgy mix throws a bolt of low-key chic that makes this hotel the new best bet in Porto. The hotel also has an indoor pool and a full spa.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Quinta da Casa Branca
Rua da Casa Branca 7
Funchal , Madeira
Portugal
Tel: 351 291 700 770
estalagem@quintacasabranca.pt
www.quintacasabranca.pt

A 19th-century country manor houses the restaurant; the 43 guest rooms occupy one of those 1960s-style glass houses normally seen hanging off cliffs in the Hollywood Hills. The hotel's inside is equally modern, with rooms done up in sateen stripe bedspreads, highly waxed parquet floors, and clean-lined functional units—though there are wicker chairs on the patios to help soften all those sharp modernist lines. Standard rooms are all on the ground floor (patios open straight onto the gardens), while Superior rooms are upstairs with balconies or terraces. Also on the premises, an outdoor heated pool and a health club/spa with sauna and Turkish bath.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
Quinta da Penha de França
Rua Imperatriz da Amélia
Funchal , Madeira
Portugal
Tel: 351 291 204 650
info@hotelquintapenhafranca.com
www.hotelquintapenhafranca.com

Just a kilometer from the center of town, this Quinta seems miles from urbanity as you stroll from your room, under the palms of the harborside gardens, right down to the sea. For your lodgings—smallish but inexpensive, with modular units and loud fabrics—choose between the romantic original manor house (high ceilings, casement windows, and a bit more classy décor) and the new, sea-view wing, where all the rooms have terraces or balconies (and where it's worth plumping for the sea view). Guests also enjoy a warmed seawater pool with a bar, restaurant, cocktail piano bar, and a billiards room.

$400 or more
Editor's Pick
Quinta da Romaneira
Cotas
Pedroso
Portugal
Tel: 351 254 732 432
resa@maisonsdesreves.com
www.maisonsdesreves.com

After a two-hour drive from Porto through the cobblestoned streets of Pedroso and up a steep hill above the Douro River, it's hard not to arrive at the Quinta da Romaneira tense and somewhat resentful. But the moment you walk through the iron gate, any discomfort is swiftly forgotten. The 990-acre property, which contains a working vineyard and seven restored nineteenth-century farmhouses, accommodates only 38 guests at a time to ensure individualized service and justify the hefty price tag. They needn't worry about the latter: With its stunning views of Portugal's wine country, impeccably attentive staff, and eclectic decor (such found objects as handcrafted ceremonial pieces from New Guinea, Indian wooden sugar silos, and a huge snakeskin employed as a tabletop), Romaneira is a rare experience. Even food gets a new twist here—there's no central restaurant, no menus, no ordering. Breakfasts of fresh fruit, jams, croissants, and coffee are served on a precipice overlooking the Douro, and lunches of salad greens, octopus, and codfish could be served under tall grapevines or on a staffed motorboat plying the river. Dinner is pure theater—an amuse of roasted almonds, olives, and fried rosemary is offered in the herbarium filled with illuminated mounted butterflies, followed by a multicourse feast in a courtyard surrounded by stars and candles. Romaneira's aged ports are magnificent, especially the 1988 Colheita—a bottle of which you can take home as a souvenir.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Reid's Palace
139 Estrada Monumental
Funchal , Madeira
Portugal
Tel: 351 291 717171
reservations@reidspalace.com
www.reidspalace.com/web/omad/omad_a2a_home.jsp

Situated in a prime cliff-top location, Reid's is the place to stay. Considered one of the world's top hotels for more than a century—just about every politico, celebrity, and member of European nobility since 1891 has stayed here. Its hushed colonial ambience isn't appropriate for the shorts and flip-flops crowd, but if you like the idea of dressing up for a few days, sipping dry martinis on the terrace, and waltzing under the stars, Reid's Palace is ideal—assuming you can pony up the price tag (room rates start around $475). The 130 Superior and Premier rooms—there is no "standard" category, natch—are decorated in a contemporary style; you have to upgrade to suite to get antique ambience. But you don't come for the décor; you come for the sheer elegance of an Orient Express property, the three swimming pools, the beauty and health spa, water sports, deep sea fishing, tennis courts, five restaurants (See “Eating” for more on The Dining Room), and the other accoutrements and amenities of five-star luxury.

$199 or less
Editor's Pick
Residencial Dos Aliados
27 Rua Elísio de Melo
Vila Nova de Gaia
Porto
Portugal 4000-196
Tel: 351 222 004 853
aliados@mail.telepac.pt
www.residencialaliados.com

This residencial—a simply hostelry that's a bit like a boarding house, only without the meals—lies smack in the center of the old city, overlooking busy Avienda dos Aliados. Costing well under $100 for a double any time of year, the 43 rooms are simple but comfortable, with furnishings ranging from 1960s-functional to the odd antique. Some come with fine city views. The staff is friendly and helpful when it comes to planning your time in Porto.

Closed December 24 and 25.

$200-$299
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Sheraton Porto Hotel and Spa
146 Rua Tenente Valadim
Boavista
Porto
Portugal 4100-476
Tel: 888 625 5144 (toll-free)
Tel: 351 220 404 000
sheraton.porto@sheraton.com
www.sheratonporto.com

Opened in November 2003, the Sheraton Porto Hotel and Spa is a gleaming paean to full-frontal modernism. The property even makes its next-door neighbor, the Meridien Park Atlantic, look dated. The design is indeed impressive—witness the startling all-glass elevator, with its silvery innards exposed. The place is packed with amenities, from high-speed Internet to an indoor pool. Following a minor local tradition, the on-site restaurant, Porto Novo, offers a superb buffet lunch on Sundays. The only drawback? The location, which isn't convenient if you intend to hang around the Old Town.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade
127 Avenida Da Liberdade
Lisbon
Portugal 1269-038
Tel: 351 21 322 8300
H1319@sofitel.com
http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1319-sofitel-lisbon-liberdade/index.shtml

The French hotel chain has redone its Lisbon property top to bottom, and the result is a hybrid of Gallic savoir faire and Portuguese flavor. The decor of dark woods with ocher and red accents distills the country's visual idiom, and Chinese porcelain (it was the Portuguese, of course, who opened up trade to India and China) and framed silhouettes of Portuguese subjects by local artists give the 171-room property an intensely local feel. Spacious rooms, with beds you want to dive into, are quiet despite the hotel's location on the central Avenida da Liberdade, a short imperial boulevard with mosaic sidewalks. Ad Lib, the Franco-Portuguese restaurant, is popular with locals.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
Vidago Palace
Parque de Vidago
Apartado 16
Vidago
Portugal 5425 307
Tel: 351 276 990 920
reservations@vidagopalace.com
www.vidagopalace.com/en

You'll make a grand entrance when arriving at this magnificent 1910 palace in the northwestern Portuguese spa town of the same name. A stone-paved driveway lined with century-old trees leads to a dusty-rose facade punctuated by Juliet balconies and French doors. There, you'll ascend a tiered granite staircase to reach the gorgeous lobby of this 70-room hotel. Working with Paris-based hotelier Grace Leo-Andrieu, Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza Vieira added a spectacular spa complex to the property and utterly remade the hotel without ruffling its Belle époque atmosphere. Similarly, the newly done public spaces, including a cozy bar, a lounge, a breakfast room, and surely one of Europe's grandest dining rooms, merge the nineteenth-century style of the great country estates. A lively color scheme, rich fabrics, and offbeat accessories provide a subtle but tonic dose of modernity. Rooms reprise this same urbane look, with high ceilings, parquet floors, thick camel-colored throw rugs, and earth-tone damask curtains and upholstery. Baths go retro with white-subway-tile walls, colorful terra-cotta-tile floors, and deep Victorian-style soaking tubs; many have French doors and fine views over the surrounding park.

$300-$399
Editor's Pick
Hotel Photo
The Yeatman
Rua do Choupelo
Vila Nova de Gaia
Porto
Portugal 4400 088
Tel: 351 22 013 3100
relax@theyeatman.com
www.the-yeatman-hotel.com

When the Yeatman opened in September 2010 on a hill in Vila Nova de Gaia, the port-producing district on the south side of the Douro River, it was the first luxury property "on the other bank," and the only one with direct vistas of Porto's beautiful skyline from every room. The purpose-built "palace" set on extensive grounds is spread over five floors sloping down the hillside. Each of the 82 spacious rooms and suites has a large private balcony and a path leading to the decanter-shaped infinity pool. The interiors are plush but ever so slightly kitsch—easily forgiven for those knockout views. Guest rooms, each named after a different wine producer, have vibrant color schemes in turquoise or yellow; traditional Portuguese ceramic tiles; and airy bathrooms with Caudalie toiletries, heated floors, and louvered shutters. The Yeatman restaurant focuses on creative pairings of food and wine (such as mussels on the rocks with grilled cucumber rice, crispy green tomato skin, and seafood curry sauce, washed down with a glass of Fiuza); the pool lounge serves snacks and light meals; and Dick's Bar has the air of a private club. A highlight is the Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa, which offers treatments such as barrel baths and crushed cabernet scrubs.—Anja Mutić

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.