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Lokál, Prague

33 Dlouhá
Czech Republic 11000
Tel: 420 222 316 265's insider take:

Effectively called "Pub," Lokál brings the concepts of local, seasonal, and from-scratch to oft-overlooked Czech pub fare. Standard dishes like sausages, stews, and dumplings take on an almost haute cuisine quality, as in the fried cheese, a schnitzel-like cutlet cooked until crisp on the outside and gooey and melty on the inside, or the rýžový nákyp, a rustic rice pudding stuffed with cooked plums and raisins and accompanied by a sweet fruit coulis. Given that the owners are better known for such high-end destinations as La Dégustation and Café Savoy, this might not be such a surprise, though the similarly sharp service seems almost out of place in this homey dive. While there are plenty of domestic wines and fruit brandies available, the beer selection is limited to draft Pilsner Urquell, served as either a classic pour, with an inch of foam; a so-called snit, with about half foam; or as mlíko (milk), a glass of 100 percent white foam. Have more than one: It does a body good.—Evan Rail

Open Mondays through Fridays 11 am to 1 am, Saturdays noon to 1 am, and Sundays noon to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.