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Le Mas de Peint, Arles

Le Sambuc
France 13200
Tel: 33 4 97 08 84 08's insider take:

Deep in the Camargue is that rare bird, a hotel-restaurant that's more like someone's home...because it is. Owner-patron Jacques Bon was born here, and loves to share his 17th-century beamed stone farmhouse with its perfect-pitch undesigned country antiques decor with guests. In the case of dinner, this is an even more special experience, since the few tables are not just near, but actually inside the kitchen—the kind of heart of the home with giant black range and hearth that features in most people's dreams of Provence (or of New Jersey, for that matter). Expert chef Julien Banlier uses what grows and is raised locally: beef and seafood, produce from the mas's gardens and, occasionally, the unique red rice of the Camargue. As you can imagine, reservations are essential.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.