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L'Enclos des Lauriers Roses, Cabrières

71 Rue du 14 Juillet
France 30210
Tel: 33 4 66 75 25 42's insider take:

As Provence grows in culinary stature, travelers have to try a little harder to get to the truly simple pleasures. You're more likely to find them at the region's edges, in places like rustic little Cabrières, where lights still go out early and the main public forum is the post office. The restaurant here, L'Enclos des Lauriers Roses, serves up uncomplicated, earthy fare in a plain setting—red tiles on the floor, plastic tablecloths covered with Provençal motifs. Clients are largely locals who come to comb through the extensive wine list's well-priced offerings. Rich fare includes brandade de morue, a creamy cod stew that arrives in a puff pastry sack drizzled with garlicky olive oil. Pike perch is a light main course, perfectly cooked and set off by a frozen tomato coulis, while a joint of lamb that has slow-roasted for five hours is straight-ahead comfort food. This is the real thing, a totally authentic experience free of any touristic glitz.

Open daily noon to 2 pm and 7 to 10 pm.

Information may have changed since the date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.